"TAM BIET " GOODBYE TILL WE MEET AGAIN - VIETNAM JOURNEY

 It was our last day in Vietnam, and we were in Ho Chi Minh City, also popularly called Saigon.

We could clearly see architectural imprints of colonial rule, blended with relics of the city's commercial and oriental roots. 

Our first visit was to the Reunification Palace, also known as the Independence Palace, the site of the former Norodom Palace, designed by the famous architect Ngô Viết Thụ. 

Our Bus was allowed only up to a certain point, and all of us had to get down and walk towards the palace. Befitting its name, the palace looked resplendent in a setting of huge ancient trees and a beautiful lawn with water fountains merrily sprinkling water all around it. The Independence Palace symbolises Vietnam's victory, peace, and territorial integrity. 

The Palace covers an area of 120,000 square meters and is adjacent to four major streets. It has hundreds of rooms equipped with luxurious furnishings and decorations, and gorgeous exterior space. 

The palace is an ideal destination for visitors to escape the heat in Southern Vietnam, enjoy the fresh, cool air, and explore one of the most remarkable structures in Ho Chi Minh City.

Two South Vietnamese pilots, Nguyen Van Cu and Pham Phu Quoc  had bombed the Independence Palace in 1962, as construction of the palace was started immediately, Diệm and his ruling family moved to Gia Long Palace, now a museum. 

Unfortunately, Diem and his brother and chief adviser Ngô Đình Nhu were assassinated in 1963. The completed palace was inaugurated in 1966 by General Nguyen Van Thieu, the then head of a military junta. The Independence Hall served as Thiệu's home and office from October 1967 to April 1975.

Thieu fled the country as communist North Vietnamese forces swept southwards in the decisive Ho Chi Minh campaign on 30th April 1975 and a tank of the North Vietnamese army dramatically bulldozed through the main gate, effectively ending the Vietnam War.

After the reunification of Vietnam, the building continued to serve as a government and presidential office until 1976, when the capital of South Vietnam was officially moved to Hanoi.

The palace is now preserved as a convention hall for state events and also serves as a public museum, making it a popular tourist attraction in Ho Chi Minh City.

We looked at the route map displayed in the entrance and started our tour of the palace.

The most interesting section of the museum was its war room, where strategic planning and key decisions were made during the Vietnam War.

Maps, South Vietnamese furnishings, and communication equipment were seen throughout the room.

The president’s formal office and the map room connected to it gave us interesting insight into the decision-making process that must have taken place at that time.

The conference and reception rooms, where official events and diplomatic meetings regularly took place, showcased power and opulence, adorned with massive carpets, golden curtains, impressive chandeliers, and well-crafted furniture.

The helipad is an interesting find on the terrace area, as this was where the last helicopter carrying American delegates departed during the fall of Saigon. I could feel the palpable tension the delegates must have felt at that moment.

The Independence Palace's stunning gardens gave us a beautiful chance to stroll around in quiet reflection and peace. I found a group of youngsters trying to have a photoshoot session for their graduation. There was frustration on the faces of the boys, while the girls were patiently giving poses. 

The Independence Palace is a brave and stark reminder of Vietnam’s tragic history and its journey towards independence and reunification.

Our next visit was to the War Remnants Museum, established on September 4, 1975.

The museum specialises in researching, collecting, preserving and displaying evidence of crimes and consequences of the wars and aggression against Vietnam, it calls out for awareness against unjust wars, protecting peace and promoting solidarity between nations. 

We entered the campus and saw several buildings with period military equipment placed within a walled yard. The military equipment included a BA fighter helicopter, a fighter plane, a" Daisy Cutter" bomb, an M48 Patton tank, an attack bomber, and a Cessna A-17 Dragonfly attack bomber. The whole setup of the equipment was so scary, I could imagine how the Vietnamese felt and suffered during the wars.

Many of the aircraft decorated with non-standard "U.S. Air Force" decals were actually those of the South Vietnamese Air Force, obviously altered for display purposes. There was a huge bell prepared from a bomb.

There were pieces of unexploded ordnance stored in the corner of the yard, with their charges and/or fuses luckily removed. 

The museum was three stories and held countless artefacts and graphic photographs, including photographer Nick Ut’s Pulitzer Prize-winning shot, “The Terror of War.”

Personally, for me, going around the museum was shocking and distressing too, as always, I wish that there wouldn’t be wars; the terrible consequences of any war are borne, unfortunately, by the younger generation.

The museum has 9 permanent exhibition themes, quite a few short-term mobile exhibitions and activities to interact with war witnesses, it has nearly 1 million visitors each year both domestic and foreign.

It covered the effects of Agent Orange and other chemical defoliant sprays, the use of napalm and phosphorous bombs, and war atrocities.The photographic display included work by Vietnam War photojournalist Bunyo Ishikawa, which he had donated to the museum in 1998. 

Curiosities included a Guillotine used by the French and South Vietnamese to execute prisoners, the last time being in 1960, and three jars of preserved human foetuses deformed by exposure to dioxins contained in the defoliant Agent Orange and pack-bikes which played a key role in the war, carrying tons of supplies during the nights silently and endlessly.

One building reproduced the "tiger cages" in which the South Vietnamese government kept political prisoners. All the exhibits included graphic photography, accompanied by a short text in English, Vietnamese and Japanese, 

Our next visit was to the twin-spired Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, a peaceful oasis in the busy downtown area. Built entirely from materials imported from France, the construction of the cathedral lasted nearly two decades, from 1863 to 1880.

Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon is an iconic symbol of Ho Chi Minh City, showcasing stunning French colonial architecture. It is located about 1.2km from Ben Thanh Market. The cathedral stands as a testament to the city's rich history.

Built in the late 19th century, the cathedral features twin bell towers which are 58 meters tall, red brick walls imported from France, and beautiful stained-glass windows.

This peaceful cathedral is well worth a visit for its historical significance and breathtaking design, making it a favourite spot for both worshippers and tourists.

Located in the heart of the city, it’s the perfect place to admire European-style architecture. Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit it as it has been under renovation since 2017.

We then saw the alabaster statue of the Virgin Mary perched in the centre of the square, which is said to have wept tears on a single occasion in 2005, witnessed by huge crowds there at the time.

Opposite the cathedral is Saigon’s charming general post office. The building was constructed when Vietnam was part of French Indochina and has Gothic, Renaissance and French influences. It was constructed between 1886 and 1891 and is now a tourist attraction. Alfred Foulhoux has designed it.

It had a stunning facade of French architecture, yellow walls, arched doors and windows, and decorative reliefs. 

Right at the top, there was a massive clock that had been running for more than 130 years. The names of numerous well-known scientists and inventors of the telegraph industry, such as Benjamin Franklin, Alessandro Volta, and Michael Faraday, were engraved on rectangular cells stretching from the centre to the sides of the building.

We entered and found a massive foyer flanked by rows of Victorian-era wooden phone booths, and a huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh in the centre.

There were two painted maps created after the post office was built. The first one, located on the left side of the building, is a map of Southern Vietnam and Cambodia titled "Telegraphic lines of Southern Vietnam and Cambodia 1892".

The second map of Greater Saigon is titled "Saigon and its surroundings 1892".

The entire length of the post office was covered by a dome-shaped roof created in a highly sophisticated arched structure and supported by a row of pillars on both sides.

There were many gift shops, and people were buying postcards and posting them.

 

The last item on our tour was the Ben Thanh Market, located in the centre of the city and truly a timeless marketplace. To start with, it was just a small market by the Ben Nghe River, built in 1870. In 1912, the French authorities decided to relocate and rebuild the market at its current location. 

The market was inaugurated in 1914, more than a century ago, and has not only been a bustling trading place but also a mute historical witness of the ups and downs of Saigon.

Ben Thanh Market stands out among other markets in Vietnam thanks to its distinctive French colonial architecture, making it a historic landmark of Ho Chi Minh City. Covering an area of approximately 13,000 square meters, with more than 1500 stalls, the market features a large, yellow-ochre facade with a signature clock tower.

The Ben Thanh Market has 4 main entrances located on major streets, and like most Saigon markets, it operates with two main time frames: the day and the night market. The market opens from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM, when the stalls inside are bustling, selling a variety of goods, including fresh food, clothing, handicrafts, and local specialities.

After 6:00 PM, the market lights up, transforming into a bustling night market with street food stalls and souvenirs, and lasts till 10:00 PM.

As we entered, we could see a matrix of aisles selling everything from fresh produce to conical hats, weasel coffee to lacquerware. 

The high, dome-like ceiling and spacious walkways ensured that natural ventilation and light happened, creating a comfortable shopping experience, although the temperature was very humid.

We found that the market was divided into different sections, making it easy for us to explore. Dry goods, souvenirs, and handicrafts were in one area, while fresh produce, seafood, and street food stalls were located in another. I found differently shaped brooms that have come to the Numaish exhibition this year.

The clothing and accessories section was also conveniently arranged, and was the most sought after by most of us.

We were pre-warned by our guide to carry cash, dress comfortably and stay hydrated to overcome the humidity. We found we had to bargain hard but most of the shopkeepers were very friendly.

I loved Ben Thanh Market as it offered a rich shopping experience, we managed to explore local culture while finding unique souvenirs and savour delicious Vietnamese specialities.

Thus came the end of our Vietnam trip. I found the places interesting and the Vietnamese people very warm and welcoming.

HELP ! THERE ARE SNAKES IN OUR DRINK IN MEKONG DELTA - VIETNAM JOURNEY

After a sumptuous lunch in Haldi restaurant near the Chi Chu tunnels, we proceeded to the Mekong Delta, one of Vietnam’s most mysterious and fascinating destinations.

The Mekong River is Southeast Asia's longest river, 4,350 km in length. It flows from the Tibetan Plateau through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam and joins the South China Sea. 

It is a critical, highly biodiverse lifeline, supporting over 70 million people with food, water, and transportation and featuring a massive inland fishery and being home to giant catfish, the Irrawaddy dolphin, Siamese crocodiles, Sarus cranes, clouded leopards, and giant ibises.

The river supports the "rice bowl" of Asia and produces up to 25% of the global freshwater catch and is vital for agricultural irrigation.

During our journey, we observed lush green rice fields, and naturally, I felt compelled to capture a photograph with them in the background.

Apart from being a biologically rich ecosystem, the Mekong is also a source of income and sustenance for more than 60 million people. Those living along the river rely on its water for cooking, irrigating, and sanitising. Additionally, it serves as a transportation and trading route for many; it transports goods from different countries and thereby helps in nurturing vibrant exchanges.

The Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam is a vast maze of rivers, swamps and islands, home to floating markets, Khmer pagodas, and villages surrounded by rice paddies. 

Tourists frequently visit the surrounding islands known as Dragon, Unicorn, Tortoise, and Phoenix.

Our bus finally arrived in My Tho, a city in southern Vietnam, from where we would take a boat for easy access to the Mekong River and its surrounding islands.

Founded in the 1680s, My Tho city was originally part of the Khmer Empire before being annexed by the Vietnamese, we can still see French colonial influence everywhere, and culture is a blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Khmer influences.

The boat was a very basic one, but it sailed along smoothly in the Tien River, the main branch of the Mekong River. All around us was water, with other boats chugging along merrily.

We finally reached the Unicorn island and got off the boat. We were then escorted to long tables laid in cool wooden patios and treated to the honey and tea experience of the Mekong Delta.

Tea in the Mekong Delta is known for its refreshing and aromatic qualities, often featuring locally sourced honey, flowers, and herbal blends.

A lady prepared the tea by mixing fresh, locally produced honey with kumquat and lime juice and hot water. 

We were shown wooden honeycomb stands. I observed that many bees were busily hovering around us, perhaps angrily eyeing us as the honey thieves. I just prayed fervently that they wouldn’t bite us. 

The tea was served hot in small glass cups, and samples of local products, such as banana candy, candied ginger, and sesame peanut crackers, accompanied our tea. 

The sweet tea really refreshed us and served as a welcome drink on the hot day. Other variants of tea include fragrant pandan-pineapple tea, lotus tea, jasmine tea, and cooling artichoke tea.

Next we had a short buggy ride and were taken to another island where we were seated and offered different types of fruits , while exquisitely dressed in ao dai dresses, beautiful Vietnamese girls sang traditional songs, in their sweet lilting voices.

The national traditional dress in Vietnam is the ao dai, a silk tunic with pants worn by both women and men.

The story of the áo dài started in 1744, when Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát asked his subjects to wear a front-buttoned gown with pants. Royals and elites got their dresses made from the finest silk, with intricate details and vibrant colors to represent their rankings in court. 

In the 1930s, the dress was simplified, the front flap was extended to reach the ankle, and the form became more fitted. 

After the establishment of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, the áo dài became a dress saved for professional appearances and special occasions. Nowadays, female high school students are required to wear a dress at least one day a week. The áo dài is also worn by ladies of all ages for any grand occasions.

The traditional dress has new modifications in the form of a boat neck, cropped length, and short sleeves, which are more practical and can be worn in less formal settings. Knee-length styles are convenient for wearing on motorcycles and bicycles

I looked around and found the area elaborately decorated with flowers, and it looked very festive.

The next trip was by traditional sampans again, rowed mostly by women through narrow canals lined by nipa palms, lush orchards, vibrant waterways, and local village life. It was very restful to take the Sampan ride with soothing nature all around us.

At the end of the Sampan ride, we stepped into a coconut workshop in Ben Tre to see how fresh coconut candy is made.

Ben Tre's soft, sticky coconut sweets are incredibly popular all over the world. More than 300 coconut candy factories are found in this area, and Ben Tre is considered the coconut kingdom of Vietnam.

Vietnamese coconut candy production in the Mekong Delta involves grating mature coconut meat, pressing it for thick milk, and simmering it with malt syrup and sugar in large woks for hours, traditionally over a coconut-shell fire. 

The thickened, caramelised mixture is cooled in stainless steel moulds, sliced and cut into smaller rectangular pieces and wrapped in edible rice paper to prevent sticking and to absorb oils. Additional ingredients like peanuts, pandan leaves, durian, chocolate, strawberry and malt are often added for variety.

The whole process took place so smoothly that we looked at it with fascination; we tasted the free candy offered and bought a few boxes to take back to India. 

Our next shock was looking at the bottles of snake wine, my hubby tried it and said it had a smoky flavour, but somehow I don’t yield to dietary temptations when abroad, just in case.

Snake drink is an alcoholic beverage prepared by infusing whole snakes in rice wine or grain alcohol and it is widely touted as an aphrodisiac that enhances virility. Winemakers typically use one large snake per bottle. They may throw in roots, berries, and herbs to enhance the flavor or healing properties or add smaller snakes, scorpions, or geckos.

The drink was first recorded as being consumed in China during the Shang dynasty (1040–770 BC) and is believed to reinvigorate a person according to traditional Chinese medicine. It is a traditional drink in East Asia and Southeast Asia.

Cycling or motor biking is one of the most popular, immersive ways to see the Delta. Several companies offer guided cycling trips, ranging from short day trips near Ho Chi Minh City to longer adventures through remote and unexplored provinces. 

One can move slowly through the countryside, weaving through miniature walkways, over narrow bridges, and through green fields and coconut groves, sometimes stopping in the shade for an ice-cold ca phe or tropical fruit. 

We came back to our boat, where our guide offered a delightful coconut drink to all of us. The water was very sweet and clear.

Green Xiem Coconuts from the Mekong Delta, particularly from Ben Tre Province, are renowned for their high-quality, sweet water and soft flesh. They are cultivated in nutrient-rich soil and harvested after 6-7 months and are known for their refreshing taste, nutritional value and high electrolyte content. 

They are available as fresh, whole young coconuts, diamond-cut, semi-husked, or vacuum-packed, catering to international markets.

Other varieties are Sáp Coconut, which has thick, sticky flesh, Pineapple-Scented coconut, which has a distinct aromatic smell, and fire coconut which comes in a reddish-orange colour. 

After all members of our tour returned, we sailed back in the boat to the My Tho terminal, where our bus was waiting patiently to take us back to Ho Chi Minh City.