Wednesday, 23 September 2026

A WILD RIDE FROM DIVAS TO CHAINSAWS - CANADA JOURNEY

Our day in Jasper ended, and we checked out of the Lobstick Lodge after witnessing a beautiful sunrise from our room.

For the uninitiated, a "lobstick" is a tall pine tree with its middle branches chopped off, historically used by fur traders as a navigation marker. That day, it served as an excellent metaphor for how I usually manage our luggage: top-heavy, confusing to onlookers, and precariously balanced.

Our tour bus driver herded us back into our designated seats after we fuelled up on giant pastries from the Bear's Paw Bakery. The drive down the Yellowhead Highway offered scenery so aggressively beautiful that it felt like the mountains were constantly preening and showing off.

We headed to Mount Robson Provincial Park to see the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, Mount Robson, often called the King of the Canadian Rockies. Unlike many high peaks which hide behind other mountains, Mount Robson stands completely exposed. It rises straight up from its base at the highway, making it one of the most visually overwhelming sights in North America. It is positioned directly on the border of Alberta, just a 45-minute drive west of Jasper. 

The absolute best, most iconic place to stop and see Mount Robson is the official Mount Robson Welcome Centre. As we drove along the highway, the massive mountain suddenly towered before us, and the visitor center parking lot was perfectly positioned directly at the base of the mountain's colossal south face.

Mount Robson stands at a towering 3,954 meters and is notorious for being an absolute diva that refuses to take off its cloudy scarf. Tour groups usually prepare for a view of solid white fog because the peak is said to create its own weather system. It is notoriously elusive and frequently blanketed by a wreath of clouds, earning it the Indigenous Shuswap name Yexyexéscen (The Mountain of the Spiral Road). On a clear day, catching a full view of the summit is considered a lucky event!

But lady luck favored us and as we pulled up to the Mount Robson Visitor Centre, the clouds parted like a theatrical curtain. There it was, in all its snow-capped, jagged glory.

My hubby and I scrambled off the bus, practically tripping over the rest of the tour group to snap a selfie before the mist swallowed it back up. We actually saw the mountain! We proudly bought a fridge magnet to immortalize our elite status as the chosen tourists who got a clear view.

There was a local coffee shop right next to the visitor centre plaza. People sat outside on the patio with coffee, fresh sandwiches, and ice cream, looking directly up at the highest peak in the Rockies. It is widely considered one of the best lunch stops with a view in all of western Canada.

The Mount Robson Viewing Deck is the landscaped viewing area and interpretive plaza immediately surrounding the Welcome Centre, providing a completely unobstructed, panoramic view of the mountain from base to peak.

From there, we descended from the high Rockies into the interior, our massive tour bus expertly navigating the winding access road up to Sun Peaks Resort. Sun Peaks is a charming mountain resort village in the Thompson-Okanagan region of British Columbia.

It is Canada's second-largest ski resort, offering 4,400 acres of diverse slopes across three unique mountains: Tod Mountain, Sundance Mountain, and Mount Morrisey. Sun Peaks operates as an all-season playground, boasting of a bustling, ski-in/ski-out European-style pedestrian village.

Sun Peaks receives an average of six metres of light, dry powder annually from mid-November to early April, and the terrain is beautifully distributed to handle all experience levels. When the snow melts, Sun Peaks transforms into a vibrant alpine destination.

We stayed at the Sun Peaks Lodge, which had a unique layout spanning two adjacent buildings, with dual access to both the vehicle roads and the pedestrian-only mountain zone. We stopped at the front entrance, the street-side of the main building sat right along Creekside Way. This served as the passenger drop-off zone and the ramp entrance to the underground parking garage. 




The lodge's back entrance opened up onto the Village Stroll pedestrian walkway, which is entirely car-free, offers instant ski-in/ski-out mountain access, and leads directly to the main chairlifts, boutique shops, and patio restaurants.

During our stay, we saw the award-winning Sun Peaks Bike Park, featuring over 40 lift-accessed trails stretching down 2,000 vertical feet, alongside 30 km of cross-country valley biking paths. 


From mid-July to mid-August, the mountainsides erupt into a colorful kaleidoscope of wild alpine flowers, easily accessible via a scenic summer chairlift ride. Visitors can also enjoy high-altitude golf, local culinary festivals, and exceptional stargazing opportunities away from city light pollution.

The entire resort base functions as an intimate, car-free village where one can literally ski or walk straight from your hotel room to local amenities. The core area features boutique shops, gear rentals, small grocery markets, and a rich dining scene full of cosy cafes, local pubs, and fine eateries.


Accessible via the Crystal and Burfield chairlifts, the highest lift-accessed point in Sun Peaks offers panoramic, 360-degree views of the surrounding Monashee and Cariboo mountain ranges. Located right at the base of the village is British Columbia's highest elevation 18-hole golf course, surrounded by dramatic mountain backdrops.

We walked across a picturesque, alpine-style wooden covered bridge that arches over the Louis Creek tributary to officially enter the pedestrian-only zone. Underneath the bridge, a quiet mountain brook flows directly through a beautiful garden, making it one of the most popular and romantic outdoor wedding ceremony locations in the area. 

The venue sits directly across from the first tee of the Sun Peaks Golf Course, making it incredibly accessible and just a short walk from the main village. It can host up to 200 guests for a ceremony. 

In the summer, it is surrounded by lush green lawns and vibrant, blooming flower gardens, so couples rarely need to bring extensive extra decor. While it is a floral paradise in the summer, it transforms into a snow-covered winter wonderland for couples looking for a snowy alpine wedding. Because it is a covered bridge, wedding photographers frequently use the inside of the structure for portrait sessions if it happens to rain.

The Village Promenade (also known as Village Way) is the main thoroughfare, lined with colorful, Bavarian-style architecture, boutique ski/bike shops, and local artisan galleries. In the winter, this path is covered in packed snow for skiers to glide through; in summer, it transforms into a lively brick walkway.

Located right outside the Sun Peaks Grand Hotel & Conference Centre is the iconic clock tower, which serves as the heart of the resort. It is a popular meeting spot, surrounded by outdoor patios, fire pits, and stone seating. 

Nearby, located near the base of the Morrisey lift bridge, is the Village Common Fire Pit—a large, public stone fire pit that is the perfect final stop to sit down, warm up, and people-watch. Another famous landmark is the Nancy Greene Lodge (often just called Cahilty Lodge), one of the most popular places to stay in Sun Peaks Resort. Named after Nancy Greene, Canada’s Olympic alpine ski champion and the resort's long-time director of Skiing, it is highly regarded for its warm, family-friendly hospitality.

Leaving the alpine paradise behind, our bus rolled south through the dramatic Fraser Canyon until we reached the town of Hope, BC. Hope’s claim to fame is twofold: it sits at an incredibly beautiful confluence of the Fraser River and the Coquihalla River, and it is the exact place where Sylvester Stallone sprinted away from the police in the 1982 film First Blood.


We embarked on the walking town tour and found ourselves standing on a street corner matching up film stills of Rambo blowing up a gas station. To add to the ambience, Hope is the chainsaw carving capital of the universe, with over 80 massive wooden sculptures scattered around.

Most of these masterpieces are carved from local western red cedar during Hope’s biannual International Chainsaw Carving Competition and remain on permanent display. The sculptures are grouped into distinct, recurring themes that reflect the heritage, wilderness, and pop culture history of the region.

One can stroll down Wallace Street to marvel at these massive, detailed wooden sculptures. The legendary Rambo Carving and the Sheriff Will Teasle Carving pay homage to the town's film history. The striking, life-sized wooden carving of Sylvester Stallone's character and the Sheriff Will Teasle statue honor the cinematic rivals, completing the town's tribute to its Hollywood past. 

Other notable carvings include "Bart" the Grizzly Bear (a massive, lifelike bear sculpture), Eagles & Totems, the Gold Prospector (capturing a rugged gold miner), the Pioneer Pack Mule, and RCMP Service Dog "Chip" (a touching memorial statue dedicated to a fallen local service dog). 

Right next to the shopping district is Memorial Park & Hope Friendship Garden, a tranquil park featuring giant trees, the Rotary Clock, and Japanese-style landscaping.

The town has a deep history; initially, the area was home to First Nations people. The Hudson’s Bay Company later established a trading post here called Fort Hope in 1848, and just 10 years later, the town exploded overnight due to the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush.


In 1885, the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway securely tied British Columbia to the rest of Canada. Decades later, in 1982, production crews transformed the quiet mountain town into "Hope, Washington" for First Blood, and film tourism remains a cornerstone of the town's identity to this day.

By lunchtime, my hubby and I were starved and tired, dodging the wooden bears.We tracked down a local spot for a massive plate of fish and chips. It was crisp, greasy perfection, the kind of meal that requires a nap immediately afterwards.I had to gently nudge my hubby from slipping into a food coma right on the tour bus before we hit the highway again.

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The final leg required our trusty bus driver to battle the heavy Vancouver traffic to reach the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal. Calling the BC Ferries vessel a "ship" may make it sound like we boarded the Titanic minus the icebergs, but it was really a massive, hyper-efficient floating cafeteria that somehow swallowed our entire tour bus and many others into its belly.


Once on board for the voyage across the Strait of Georgia, my hubby and I engaged in the traditional ferry protocols of walking up to the outer deck, only to realize it was incredibly windy and freezing cold. We hurriedly retreated inside to buy overpriced coffee.

We eventually went back outside because someone in our tour group whispered the word "orca." We didn't see any whales, though my hubby did point excitedly at three separate pieces of driftwood and a very large seagull.

As the ship sailed through the stunning Active Pass, dodging tiny islands, the chaos of the road melted away; the blue water mesmerised and calmed the mind. The ship docked at Swartz Bay, our bus rolled out onto Vancouver Island, and we finally arrived in Victoria.


 



 

Sunday, 13 September 2026

RISING FROM ASHES : THE BEAUTIFUL RESILIENCE OF JASPER NATIONAL PARK – CANADA JOURNEY

From Banff, we set off for Jasper. Even though our coach and guide had warned us what to expect, the sheer speed and starkness of the changing views left us completely shell-shocked.

In July 2024, a massive, lightning-sparked wildfire tore through the region, scorching over 32,700 hectares and claiming roughly 30% of the town's structures. The inferno resulted in nearly $880 million CAD in insured damages before it was officially declared extinguished on April 1, 2025.

The massive Rocky Mountains towered over us; we could clearly see the fire's heavy toll at their base. It was a desolate landscape of charred trees, and my vivid imagination immediately began picturing animals and birds desperately trying to flee the flames.

Fortunately, highly mobile species like wolves, elk, bighorn sheep, and adult bears managed to outrun the blaze, shifting into the park's remaining 10,000+ square kilometers of unburned land. Slower-moving animals like porcupines, sadly, suffered the highest mortality rates, and mother bears with young cubs faced a very tough seasonal transition after temporarily losing their valley-bottom buffalo berries. 

Yet, while the fire left a visible scar, the ecosystem has handled the crisis surprisingly well. The wildfire had a highly nuanced impact on the local environment; the nutrient-rich ash quickly sprouted an elite, all-you-can-eat "salad days" buffet of fresh grasses and vibrant fireweed. 

Today, local deer and elk can regularly be seen living their best lives, grazing peacefully in the open burn zones. 

Driven by strict new "FireSmart" regulations and a massive community effort, Jasper is bouncing back with a vengeance.

Our first excursion of the day was to Maligne Lake, the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. Sitting at an elevation of 5,479 feet, this 14-mile-long body of water is fed by three visible glaciers and reaches depths of 318 feet.

Long before the early explorer Mary Schäffer famously declared it "an entire string of pearls" in 1908, the region was stewarded by Indigenous people who called it Chaba Imne (Beaver Lake). 

As for the name "Maligne"? It is French for wicked or malignant, courtesy of a French Jesuit missionary in 1846 who had a thoroughly miserable time trying to cross the treacherous, rushing river on horseback.

We arrived at the historic Curly Philips Boathouse and boarded a glass-enclosed cruise bound for Spirit Island. These cruises only run from late May to mid-October and are world-renowned for their dramatic "Gasp Factor." 


As we sailed deeper into the glacially fed waters, the wide lake began to narrow into a spectacular, mountain-ringed amphitheatre often called the "Hall of the Gods." We watched the water shift into a deep, brilliant azure blue, a colour caused by the dense rock flour washing down from the three feeding glaciers.


Slowly, the postcard-perfect cluster of trees grew larger as the boat cruised past sheer rock faces. The classic view of Spirit Island did not disappoint: a tiny, peaceful grove of tall pine and spruce trees nestled on a narrow peninsula, surrounded by vibrant, turquoise-blue water and framed by massive, snow-dusted peaks. 

Spirit Island achieved legendary status on the early internet when Apple included a high-definition photograph of it as a pre-installed desktop wallpaper on Mac computers to showcase their Retina displays. 

Today, it remains a viral staple across travel blogs, Instagram, and global tourism campaigns—its likeness plastered across international airports and postcards as the ultimate visual symbol of the Canadian Rockies.

Because of its immense cultural and ecological fragility, walking on the island is strictly forbidden—a rule the tour guides enforce with absolute authority. 

The island is deeply sacred to the Stoney Nakoda First Nation, who know it as Githni-mi-Makoche ("Healing Island") and consider it the living, beating heart of the lake.

Its rare placement within the canyon—surrounded on three sides by the exact same towering mountain range—is what sets it apart visually.

Once the boat docked, we stepped off for a heavily supervised 15-to-30-minute stop along an accessible boardwalk shoreline viewing platform. 

For those looking to test the absolute limits of their upper-body strength, you can rent a canoe or kayak from the Curly Phillips Boathouse for a gruelling 28-kilometre round-trip paddle that demands 6 to 8 hours of strenuous rowing. The area also serves as the trailhead for the famous 44 km Skyline Trail, Jasper’s premier multi-day backpacking trek.

Looking around, we felt incredibly lucky; there weren't many tourists, and a profound silence enveloped us, broken only by the calm lake water lapping the shore and the sweet singing of the birds.

After lunch in Jasper, we headed to Whistler’s Summit (The 360° Alpine Flex). Located just 7 kilometers southwest of the Jasper town, this imposing 8,100-foot peak sits in the Trident Range. It takes its name from the high-pitched warning "whistles" of the resident hoary marmots that lounge across the high-alpine boulder fields. 

To get to the top, we have two options depending on how much we enjoy sweating: hardcore hikers looking to earn their dinner the hard way can climb the mountain entirely from its base—a gruelling 3- to 6-hour, 16.2 km round-trip featuring a massive 4,311 vertical feet of pure gain. 

We opted for the "SkyTram Shortcut," skipping the lower mountain entirely by riding the Jasper SkyTram—the highest and longest aerial tramway in Canada. Operating from mid-April through late October, the tram whisked us up to the upper terminal at 2,277 meters in just 7 minutes.


From the upper station's Summit Café, we hiked the Whistler Summit Trail, a 2.4-mile round-trip out-and-back path with 915 feet of elevation gain. The path was slippery with loose gravel, taking us about 45 to 90 minutes to reach the true geological peak. 


As we walked carefully, we suddenly heard that famous whistle! Searching keenly for the source, we spotted a hoary marmot sitting just a few feet away, eyeing us curiously. It had a bundle of dry leaf stalks arranged like a fan in its mouth, looking incredibly busy constructing a new home.

The weather cooperated beautifully, granting us a clear day, and the alpine vista was nothing short of spectacular. We could look straight down onto the entire town of Jasper, the winding Athabasca River, and the striking turquoise waters of Lake Pyramid, Edith, and Annette.

Six different mountain ranges unfolded into the horizon, with the mighty Mount Robson—the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies at 3,954 meters—slicing into the skyline over 100 kilometers away in British Columbia. 

Even though it was a comfortable 20°C down in the town, the summit was completely exposed to the harsh elements; frigid winds whipped across the peak, and we were incredibly glad we had packed our sweaters.

Next, we visited the Jasper Indigenous Exhibit, a permanent, immersive outdoor cultural space located right on the lawn of the Jasper Visitor Information Centre (historically known as Athabasca Park).


The centerpiece of the park was a massive bronze sculpture by renowned Indigenous sculptor Lionel Peyachew, featuring a large globe with a majestic eagle landing on top. 

The sphere is inscribed with words from six different Indigenous languages native to the communities connected to the park. Lining the walkways were high-quality, weather-resistant outdoor art panels and community stories, featuring beautiful reproductions of paintings, fine art, and traditional beadwork designs by local artists celebrating their deep connection to the land and mountains. 

The entire installation serves as an educational and truth-telling space, honouring the history, art, and resilience of the people who originally stewarded the land before the national park was established. It was deeply heart-touching and sobering.

Before calling it a day, we stopped at Grandma's Ice Cream Place, a quirky, family-owned staple situated right in the heart of Jasper town. The brightly decorated, retro-style storefront famously boasts 66 different flavors of ice cream, ranging from classic scoops to fun creations like London Fog and Nerdy Coyote. It is also famously dog-friendly, offering treats for four-legged tourists.


We found the owners to be incredibly sweet, warm, and welcoming. The shop was located at 616 Connaught Drive, directly parallel to Jasper’s active mainline railway tracks. 

Sitting outside with a waffle cone, offered us a front-row seat to the heavy Canadian National (CN) freight train traffic.


The rumbling engines, dramatic clanking of train cars, and long echoes of train horns bounce off the surrounding mountain peaks. It added a gritty, nostalgic, and distinctly industrial charm to an otherwise serene Rocky Mountain alpine town.

I was totally in love with Jasper town, which had valiantly risen from the ashes to shine again and show its beauty to the world. 



A WILD RIDE FROM DIVAS TO CHAINSAWS - CANADA JOURNEY

Our day in Jasper ended, and we checked out of the Lobstick Lodge after witnessing a beautiful sunrise from our room. For the uninitiated, a...