STONES, SPIRES, AND SOUL: OUR EPIC HERITAGE DAY IN AHMEDABAD

This was our second day in Ahmedabad, a city home to some of India’s most remarkable Indo-Islamic heritage mosques. Built during the 15th and 16th centuries under the Gujarat Sultanate, these structures beautifully blend Islamic structural geometry with exquisite Hindu and Jain craftsmanship.

We started at the Shahi Jama Masjid, built in 1424 by Sultan Ahmed Shah I. As one of India's grandest congregational mosques, it rests on 260 intricately carved pillars supporting 15 spectacular domes with internal lotus-flower motifs. 

Its massive and serene marble courtyard offers a quiet sanctuary in the middle of the chaotic Manek Chowk bazaar.

Next, we passed by the Sidi Saiyad Masjid, commissioned in 1573 by a Habshi nobleman of African descent during the Sultanate–Mughal transition. It is globally famous for the "Tree of Life" jali—a 16-foot stone lattice window carved with spider-web precision that serves as the official symbol of Ahmedabad. Uniquely, it lacks a traditional central dome, relying instead on a flat system of interior stone arches.

Heading right next to the Kalupur Metro Station, we checked out the Jhulta Minar, one of the most compelling architectural mysteries in India. These towers are remnants of the 15th-century Sidi Bashir Mosque.

Built in a beautiful Indo-Islamic style blended with Rajputana architectural elements, the surviving monument consists of two 70-foot-tall, three-story sandstone minarets flanking a central gateway.

What makes them mind-boggling is their sympathetic resonance: if we apply a gentle force to the upper arch of one minaret, it sways, and within seconds, the opposite minaret begins to shake in perfect tandem.

Meanwhile, the connecting central stone archway remains completely motionless. However, to keep the structure from collapsing, authorities have discontinued public demonstrations and banned climbing the internal spiral staircases.

Next, we headed 18 km north on the Gandhinagar highway to Adalaj Stepwell, a five-story-deep underground sandstone masterpiece built in 1499. 

Classified as a "Jaya Vav" (a three-faced stepwell) because it has three entrances that meet at a central platform, its history is a mix of medieval engineering, tragic romance, and cultural fusion.

Its construction was started in 1498 by the Hindu ruler Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty to solve severe water shortage. However, he was killed in battle by Sultan Mahmud Begada of Gujarat.

The Sultan fell in love with Veer Singh’s beautiful widow, Queen Rudabai, and proposed marriage. She agreed on one condition—that the Sultan complete the stepwell.

Begada built the structure in record time, blending Islamic features with the original design. Upon its completion in 1499, Queen Rudabai came to inspect the work and, choosing dignity over dishonour, jumped into the well, ending her life. Touched by her supreme devotion, the heartbroken Sultan left the monument intact without destroying its Hindu carvings.

The design features massive open octagonal shafts that let in light but restrict direct sunshine except at noon, keeping the lower tiers at a cool 5°C to 6°C below the surface ground level. 

As we walked down from the blistering surface heat, it felt like we were stepping into air-conditioned rooms. 

We admired sacred symbols like the Ami Khumbor (pot of the water of life) and the Kalpavriksha (tree of life), alongside bands of meticulously carved, 3-inch-high elephants. My husband spent ten minutes trying to find two elephants with the same design, but to his disappointment, they were all completely distinct!

Our next destination was one of India's most revered national monuments, the Sabarmati Ashram (also known as Satyagraha Ashram). There was no entry ticket, and as we entered the premises and saw the Sabarmati River and its banks, we could immediately feel the peace in the surroundings. 

The Ashram served as the primary home and headquarters of Mahatma Gandhi and his wife, Kasturba, from 1917 till 1930 and was the nerve centre of the Indian independence movement.

Gandhiji felt the 36-acre riverfront plot was ideal because it sat directly between a prison and a graveyard, reminding his satyagrahis where their struggle for truth would likely lead them. 

On March 12, 1930, Gandhiji marched out of this ashram with 78 companions on the historic Dandi Salt March, taking a sacred vow never to return until India achieved complete independence. Sadly, he never lived here again.

The architecture beautifully mirrors Gandhiji’s philosophy of minimalism, self-sufficiency, and indigenous materials

Hriday Kunj is the most historic cottage on campus and the actual living quarters of Gandhi and Kasturba, where we viewed Gandhi's writing desk, his personal spinning wheel (charkha), and original letters.

Upasana Mandir is an open-air, tiered prayer ground overlooking the river for morning and evening spiritual discourse.

Vinoba –Mira Kutir – a very modest cottage named after prominent disciples Acharya Vinoba Bhave and Mirabehn.

Nandini is the dedicated guest house that once hosted national leaders like Jawaharlal Nehru and Rabindranath Tagore.

We next went to Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya, the museum, which was designed by legendary architect Charles Correa. Opened in 1963, simple 20' x 20' modular brick units, unvarnished wood, and terracotta roof tiles were used to mimic the casual, winding layout of an Indian village.

It houses over 34,000 original letters and 8,600 manuscripts and is open every day of the year from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM.

After a vegetarian lunch, we visited the Hutheesing Jain Temple, one of Ahmedabad's most stunning architectural and spiritual landmarks. Built entirely of white marble in 1848, this sacred Śvētāmbara Jain temple seamlessly blends traditional Maru-Gurjara temple architecture with Gujarati haveli design elements.

It stands as a monument to compassion, as it was constructed by the wealthy merchant family of Seth Hutheesing Kesrisinh as a humanitarian famine-relief project to provide employment for hundreds of artisans.

A magnificent, 78-foot-tall tower of honour stands at the entrance, inspired by Chittor's Kirti Stambha with subtle Mughal minaret styling. The entire double-storied structure features exceptionally dense stone carvings on its pillars, brackets, and windows. 

The outer courtyard is bordered by a massive cloister containing 52 smaller shrines (Bavan Jinalay), housing a total of 238 stone deity images. 

We wrapped up our epic heritage day at the grand BAPS Swaminarayana Temple in Shahibaug. Consecrated originally in 1952 by Yogiji Maharaj, this massive, hyper-disciplined spiritual complex doubles as the main head office for BAPS operations.

It was evening by the time we reached, and the architecture was an absolute showstopper—a breathtaking, pure white structure adorned with incredibly intricate stone carvings, towering grand domes, and beautifully manicured gardens. Inside, the lifelike murtis of Shri Ghanshyam Maharaj and Harikrishna Maharaj are dressed daily in unique, highly elaborate attire. 

We were so mesmerised by the absolute discipline, the pristine marble layout highlighted by multiple lights, and the peaceful vibes that we forgot to check our phones for a full hour except to take snaps—a certified spiritual miracle!

The complex includes secure on-site parking and a wonderfully clean dining hall serving pure vegetarian, Sathvik food. After a long day of walking, sitting down to a peaceful meal here felt like absolute heaven.

Ahmedabad’s heritage is mind-blowing, and the craftsmanship is unbelievable. Packing plenty of water and wearing easy-to-slip-off shoes definitely saved the day!

 

IRON GIANTS, KITE BRIDGES, AND ENDLESS THALIS –WONDERS OF GUJARAT !

Our Gujarat adventure officially kicked off when my husband and I flew from Hyderabad to Ahmedabad. Landing at Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport—managed by the Adani Group and ranked India's 7th busiest airport—the arrival lobby absolutely blew us away. It was meticulously designed to showcase Gujarat’s vibrant culture and heritage, instantly immersing us in an authentic regional vibe.

From the airport, we checked into our room, dropped off our luggage, and headed straight to the Statue of Unity in Ekta Nagar, about 200 km away. The monument is closed every Monday for structural checks and deep engineering maintenance.

You can see the statue from far away. Standing at a monumental 597 feet, it is officially the world’s tallest statue—nearly double the height of the Statue of Liberty! It stands right on the Narmada River, facing the colossal Sardar Sarovar Dam. 

The monument is a massive tribute to Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, India’s "Iron Man" and its first Deputy Prime Minister, who successfully integrated 562 fragmented princely states into a unified Indian Union after independence.

Honestly, after seeing what it took to build it—24,500 metric tonnes of steel frames and 6,500 bronze panels engineered to survive fierce 180 km/h winds and Seismic Zone IV earthquakes—I thought "Iron Man" was an understatement. Unlike most giant vertical pillars, it features a unique architectural design with a narrow base and an irregular, active walking pose.

Ticket Options at the Statue: SOU Entry Ticket (Rs 150 Adults / Rs 90 Kids): Gives campus access, the base museum, and free internal shuttle buses.

Viewing Gallery Ticket (Rs 380 Adults / Rs 230 Kids): Includes all basic features plus elevator access to the chest-level viewing gallery.

Express VIP Ticket (Rs 1,030 / person): Bypasses all the massive elevator queues. If you are travelling on a weekend or a festival day, we highly recommend buying this to save time and energy.

By the time we finished exploring the state-of-the-art museum detailing India's freedom struggle at the statue's base, our stomachs were growling louder than the speedboats on the Narmada River. 

We popped into a local eatery nearby to try Farsan (the collective Gujarati word for savoury snacks). In Gujarat, snacking isn’t just a pastime; it’s a way of life.

I am very fond of Dhokla, so we ordered a platter of Khaman Dhokla—fluffy, steamed savory gram flour cakes topped with mustard seeds and green chillies. It looks like a bright yellow kitchen sponge but tastes like juicy, sweet-and-sour heaven.

Alongside it came Khandvi, a literal work of culinary art: tightly rolled, paper-thin layers of gram flour and yogurt that practically melt in your mouth. We topped it off with Patra—taro leaves coated in a spicy, tangy chickpea paste, rolled, steamed, and pan-fried to crispy perfection.

Fully satiated, we headed up to the Viewing Gallery. We zipped up inside the statue in a high-speed glass elevator that took just 30 seconds. The open panoramic deck accommodates up to 200 people, providing gorgeous 360-degree vistas across the Satpura and Vindhya ranges and the dam.

On our way out, we passed the Wall of Unity. This highly symbolic, 50x15-foot rammed earth wall was formulated entirely with soil gathered from 169,078 Indian villages during the project's historic nationwide Loha (iron) collection drive. 

As we walked past, I heard a visitor proudly telling his wife that even their village had taken part in it too. 

While we had to walk a lot, there were plenty of travelators to aid anyone having difficulty. At 7:30 PM, the entire bronze statue turns into a giant projector screen for a 25-minute light and sound show narrating the history of India's unification—an absolute must-watch!

The surrounding area hosts over 30 tourist attractions connected by free, air-conditioned shuttle buses, including

For Nature Lovers: A massive 375-acre Jungle Safari zoo, a cactus garden, and a beautifully manicured 17-kilometer Valley of Flowers.

For Kids: The world's first tech-driven theme park for healthy eating, featuring a miniature electric "Nutri Train" with VR games.

For Adventure Seekers: White-water river rafting at Khalwani Eco-Tourism or a romantic Ekta Cruise boat ride down the river.

The Unity Glow Garden: India's largest organic labyrinth (the Maze Garden) that lights up after dark with thousands of glowing, LED-illuminated animal installations.

Our final stop took us back to the heart of Ahmedabad to the Atal Bridge. Opened in August 2022, this is India's first pedestrian-only steel truss bridge spanning the Sabarmati River. It has already drawn over 77 lakh visitors, and it was easy to see why.

The design was inspired by the traditional kites flown during Gujarat's famous Uttarayan festival. At night, the bridge undergoes a magical transformation with a dynamic LED lighting sequence that makes the whole riverfront sparkle.

The bridge features four expansive, transparent glass floor sections. Looking straight down into the flowing river beneath us was thrilling! 

To prevent heavy congestion, a standard entry ticket of Rs 30 allows for a 30-minute stay, and security enforces a strict limit of 3,000 visitors per hour on the deck. Cricket bats, footballs, skateboards, outside food, and pets are strictly forbidden. Casual smartphone photography is highly encouraged, but professional shoots require a commercial permit.

Right adjacent to the western gate is the Sabarmati Riverfront Flower Park, a 3.85-hectare curated green space showcasing over 72 distinct species of flora. Inside is the Moon Trail Glow Garden, a nighttime exhibition featuring 54 vibrant, illuminated neon sculptures and specialized selfie zones.

Exhausted, heavily photosynthesized from the sun, and with our feet throbbing, we literally hobbled off the bridge and went straight to a traditional Gujarati restaurant. If you think you know Indian food, a Gujarati thali will politely tap you on the shoulder and make you change your mind.

The defining characteristic here is contrast. The food manages to be sweet, salty, tangy, and spicy in one bite—mostly because a bit of jaggery is sneaked into almost everything, including the savoury dishes! My husband spent the first ten minutes trying to figure out why his spicy curry tasted like dessert, and the next twenty minutes demanding a second helping.

We feasted on Sev Tameta Nu Shaak (a spicy, tangy tomato curry topped with crispy, savoury chickpea noodles) paired with warm, buttery, flaky Theplas. 

We also loved the Gujarati Kadhi—a thin, silky, sweet-and-spicy yoghurt soup flavoured with ginger and green chillies that felt like a warm therapeutic hug for our stomachs.

The best part? The waiters didn't believe in waiting until the end of the meal for dessert—sweets were served right on the plate next to the spicy curries! We scooped up dense, saffron-infused Shrikhand with hot, puffy puris, and washed it down with Basundi (rich, thickened condensed milk loaded with pistachios). 

Almost all the restaurants operate on an "all-you-can-eat" model. Servers walk around with copper buckets and do not take "no" for an answer, viewing an empty spot on your plate as a personal insult! Ultimately, we discovered that refreshing buttermilk was our best friend to cool our palates and aid digestion.

What a massive, beautiful, exhausting first day in Gujarat!