Thursday, 1 October 2026

YOU SURE WON OUR HEARTS ! DEAR VICTORIA - CANADA JOURNEY

After our cruise ship docked in Victoria, we passed the Fisherman's Wharf, the Grand Parliament Buildings, and Government Street. We then drove through Beacon Hill Park to be dropped off at our hotel, where we checked in.

The next day, we visited the world-famous Butchart Gardens, whose origin is pure, unadulterated, petty genius. Back in 1904, a pioneer named Robert Butchart built a booming cement factory on a rich limestone deposit at Tod Inlet. By 1909, he had completely mined out the limestone, leaving behind a massive, barren, and aggressively ugly pit. His wife, Jennie Butchart, looked out the window at this industrial wasteland and emphatically said, "Absolutely not."

Jennie had a vision. She commissioned horse-drawn carts to painstakingly haul in tons of rich topsoil from nearby farmlands to bury her husband's industrial disaster. Today, it is a National Historic Site of Canada that welcomes over a million people a year.

After presenting our tickets at the main admission gate, we entered the garden and walked into Waterwheel Square, which serves as the central orientation hub. It featured a rustic wood-and-stone waterwheel surrounded by immaculate, seasonal floral borders. From there, we followed the main path, which plunged into a heavily forested canopy of native Pacific Northwest trees.



The path led to a spectacular stone lookout. From this vantage point, we got our first panoramic view of the Sunken Garden, the crown jewel of the estate. We walked down a winding path into what was once the floor of the limestone quarry, where the towering 50-foot rock walls were draped in ivy and climbing plants. Beds of vibrant annuals, manicured lawns, and rare shrubs formed a multi-layered tapestry of color. 

A massive, mound-shaped rock outcropping stood in the center, offering an elevated view. Tucked into the far end of the quarry was the Ross Fountain, added in 1964. It projects intricate, dancing water patterns up to 70 feet into the air against a backdrop of the stark quarry walls.

We exited the quarry floor up a gentle switchback. The path guided us through a forested trail populated with bronze deer statues before emerging onto the open, expansive Concert Lawn.

The Children's Pavilion housed the Rose Carousel, a custom-made, handcrafted wooden carousel built in 2009 that featured thirty carved animals. To my amusement, I could see more adults riding it than children. Nearby sat a massive bronze dragon fountain, which was a gift from Suzhou, China.



Next we passed through the formal Rose Garden. Active from summer through early autumn, this section features long, parallel flower beds bordered by boxwood hedges, showcasing over 250 varieties of roses. Walking beneath the fragrant, rose-laden wooden arches brought us past a frog fountain; our senses were overpowered by the powerful sweet aroma of the roses.



A dramatic change in atmosphere happened as we passed beneath a traditional red Torii gate to enter the Japanese Garden, designed in 1906. Here, the bright, open floral displays gave way to a shaded, tranquil environment dominated by shades of green, rust, and brown.                                           

The space featured winding streams, wooden footbridges, stone lanterns, and a serene koi pond framed by a rare collection of Japanese maples, azaleas, and rare Himalayan blue poppies. The path skirts along the edge of the inlet before turning back inland.

Emerging from the Japanese Garden, we encountered the Star Pond, a geometric, twelve-pointed water feature originally designed for Mr. Butchart’s collection of ornamental ducks. A bronze frog sat at the center of the pond, spouting water.

Directly adjacent was the Italian Garden, which was originally the Butchart family's tennis court. Designed in a formal, classical Italian style, it featured symmetrical cross-shaped ponds and elegant stone arches.


The path concluded at the Piazza, the historic courtyard fronting the original Butchart family residence, which is now home to the Dining Room Restaurant. Before leaving, the route led directly into the sprawling Seed and Gift Shop, where visitors can buy packaged seeds of the flowers. Exiting the shop placed us right back in Waterwheel Square where we started.


The grounds are home to several incredible sculptures .A magnificent bronze statue of a wild boar stands prominently near the entrance to the Italian Garden and the Piazza. Cast in Florence, Italy, it is a replica of a famous 17th-century masterpiece. Visitors traditionally rub the boar’s snout for good luck and drop a coin into the fountain basin below, with all proceeds donated to local charities.

Guarding the entryway near the historic Butchart Residence are two massive, regal bronze lions. Purchased by the Butchart family during their European travels in the early 1900s, they give the piazza a grand, classical European atmosphere.

Located near the exit pathway just outside the Seed and Gift Shop, an intricate bronze fountain features three beautifully sculpted sturgeon fish leaping from the water. It was cast in Florence using the traditional lost-wax method and adds a dynamic, fluid visual right at the exit.

The garden was originally named "Benvenuto" (Italian for "welcome") and used to host the public for tea and concerts. Today, it takes 50 full-time gardeners and 26 greenhouses to keep Jennie’s magnificent display of spite looking pristine.

The next day, we decided to get a bird's-eye view of the city by hopping on an open-top, double-decker bus tour operated by Gray Line Sightseeing. Our driver was a wonderful lady with a great sense of humour.

We cruised past the majestic, ivy-covered Fairmont Empress Hotel, one of Canada's most celebrated grand railway hotels. It was designed in 1908 by Francis Rattenbury, who also designed the majestic Parliament Buildings next door.

Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway to mimic a grand French chateau, it was aimed at attracting wealthy luxury travelers arriving on steamships. Named after Queen Victoria (who was also the Empress of India), the hotel has hosted everyone from King George VI to Queen Elizabeth II, alongside Hollywood royalty like Shirley Temple and John Wayne.

We then visited Craigdarroch Castle, an imposing stone mansion built in the late 1880s by Robert Dunsmuir, a Scottish immigrant who became Western Canada's wealthiest coal baron. In a tragic twist of fate, he died just months before his mega-mansion was completed.

While Victoria is made of grand stone buildings, ocean breezes, and historic neighbourhoods, riding on the top deck of the bus turned out to be a tactical operation. 

We crossed the Johnson Street Bridge, affectionately known to locals as the "Blue Bridge," which is one of downtown Victoria's defining modern landmarks. It spans the narrow waterway connecting the Inner Harbour and the Upper Harbour.

Because of Victoria’s unique, mild Mediterranean climate, the city is an absolute jungle of rare and massive trees. As the bus wound through residential streets, we were surrounded by giant Garry Oaks (a protected, gnarly native species) and colossal Giant Sequoias imported by wealthy settlers 150 years ago. We quickly realized that if you stand up on the top deck, you risk getting slapped in the face by a century-old exotic branch, so it was better to remain safely seated.

We also drove under the Gate of Harmonious Interest into Chinatown, which is the oldest in Canada and the second-oldest in North America. While there, we peered down Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street on the continent.

Our final stop was the southern edge of Beacon Hill Park along Dallas Road to find Mile Zero. This spot marks the official western terminus of the massive 8,000-kilometer Trans-Canada Highway. Standing right at the edge of the coast was a deeply moving bronze monument of Terry Fox, captured in his signature mid-stride, hop-and-skip running motion with his prosthetic leg.

In 1980, after losing his leg to cancer, Terry started his "Marathon of Hope," attempting to run across the entire country to raise money for cancer research. He planned to finish his epic journey right here at Mile Zero. Tragically, his cancer returned, forcing him to stop in Ontario after 143 days and 5,373 kilometres. He passed away the following year at just 22 years of age. The statue stands as a beautiful commemoration of the exact finish line he spent his final months striving toward.

Looking past the statue across the deep blue water, we could see the spectacular, snow-capped Olympic Mountains glowing in the distance, which are actually located across the US border in Washington State.

In the heart of the 200-acre park, we stumbled upon the Beacon Hill Park Teapot. It is a giant, bright blue novelty teapot that literally pours water out of its spout into a children's wading pool. 

We finished our tour by passing the southwest corner of the Fairmont Empress property to see the Emily Carr Statue, unveiled in 2010.

Titled "Our Emily," the bronze sculpture perfectly captures the eccentric spirit of one of Victoria's most beloved artists. She is depicted sitting with her sketchpad, looking out at the harbour. The best part, however, is her companions: her faithful dog Billie at her side and a Javanese pet monkey named Woo playfully perched on her shoulder.

By afternoon, we were dropped off for lunch. Following our driver's excellent suggestion, we went to an eatery in the Inner Harbour called Red Fish Blue Fish. It operates out of an upcycled, 20-foot shipping container right on the wooden pier at 1006 Wharf Street.



Started in 2007 by the founders Simon Sobolewski and Libby Gibson, it gained massive popularity thanks to its unique shipping-container design, 100% sustainable local seafood, and iconic dockside dining experience. Because it has been featured on the Food Network and in major travel guides, the zigzagging line is legendary—often stretching from 30 minutes to over an hour.

We waited it out and ordered their famous wild Pacific halibut fish and chips (cooked in an incredibly light, crisp tempura batter) and their signature "Tacones"—sustainable fish tacos brilliantly rolled into a handheld flour tortilla cone.

Dining there was entirely outdoors along the bustling pier, we sat on barstools watching seaplanes land. In the water below, wild Harbour Seals popped their heads straight up, looking at us with giant, cheeky puppy-dog eyes, begging for a stray piece of seafood. Meanwhile overhead, the local seagulls were busy planning to steal our food.


I found Victoria very beautiful, windy, historic, and delightfully weird. The city somehow manages to perfectly balance its refined, ultra-British tea-and-symphony vibe with a delightfully wild undercurrent. 

Wednesday, 23 September 2026

A WILD RIDE FROM DIVAS TO CHAINSAWS - CANADA JOURNEY

Our day in Jasper ended, and we checked out of the Lobstick Lodge after witnessing a beautiful sunrise from our room.

For the uninitiated, a "lobstick" is a tall pine tree with its middle branches chopped off, historically used by fur traders as a navigation marker. That day, it served as an excellent metaphor for how I usually manage our luggage: top-heavy, confusing to onlookers, and precariously balanced.

Our tour bus driver herded us back into our designated seats after we fuelled up on giant pastries from the Bear's Paw Bakery. The drive down the Yellowhead Highway offered scenery so aggressively beautiful that it felt like the mountains were constantly preening and showing off.

We headed to Mount Robson Provincial Park to see the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, Mount Robson, often called the King of the Canadian Rockies. Unlike many high peaks which hide behind other mountains, Mount Robson stands completely exposed. It rises straight up from its base at the highway, making it one of the most visually overwhelming sights in North America. It is positioned directly on the border of Alberta, just a 45-minute drive west of Jasper. 

The absolute best, most iconic place to stop and see Mount Robson is the official Mount Robson Welcome Centre. As we drove along the highway, the massive mountain suddenly towered before us, and the visitor center parking lot was perfectly positioned directly at the base of the mountain's colossal south face.

Mount Robson stands at a towering 3,954 meters and is notorious for being an absolute diva that refuses to take off its cloudy scarf. Tour groups usually prepare for a view of solid white fog because the peak is said to create its own weather system. It is notoriously elusive and frequently blanketed by a wreath of clouds, earning it the Indigenous Shuswap name Yexyexéscen (The Mountain of the Spiral Road). On a clear day, catching a full view of the summit is considered a lucky event!

But lady luck favored us and as we pulled up to the Mount Robson Visitor Centre, the clouds parted like a theatrical curtain. There it was, in all its snow-capped, jagged glory.

My hubby and I scrambled off the bus, practically tripping over the rest of the tour group to snap a selfie before the mist swallowed it back up. We actually saw the mountain! We proudly bought a fridge magnet to immortalize our elite status as the chosen tourists who got a clear view.

There was a local coffee shop right next to the visitor centre plaza. People sat outside on the patio with coffee, fresh sandwiches, and ice cream, looking directly up at the highest peak in the Rockies. It is widely considered one of the best lunch stops with a view in all of western Canada.

The Mount Robson Viewing Deck is the landscaped viewing area and interpretive plaza immediately surrounding the Welcome Centre, providing a completely unobstructed, panoramic view of the mountain from base to peak.

From there, we descended from the high Rockies into the interior, our massive tour bus expertly navigating the winding access road up to Sun Peaks Resort. Sun Peaks is a charming mountain resort village in the Thompson-Okanagan region of British Columbia.

It is Canada's second-largest ski resort, offering 4,400 acres of diverse slopes across three unique mountains: Tod Mountain, Sundance Mountain, and Mount Morrisey. Sun Peaks operates as an all-season playground, boasting of a bustling, ski-in/ski-out European-style pedestrian village.

Sun Peaks receives an average of six metres of light, dry powder annually from mid-November to early April, and the terrain is beautifully distributed to handle all experience levels. When the snow melts, Sun Peaks transforms into a vibrant alpine destination.

We stayed at the Sun Peaks Lodge, which had a unique layout spanning two adjacent buildings, with dual access to both the vehicle roads and the pedestrian-only mountain zone. We stopped at the front entrance, the street-side of the main building sat right along Creekside Way. This served as the passenger drop-off zone and the ramp entrance to the underground parking garage. 




The lodge's back entrance opened up onto the Village Stroll pedestrian walkway, which is entirely car-free, offers instant ski-in/ski-out mountain access, and leads directly to the main chairlifts, boutique shops, and patio restaurants.

During our stay, we saw the award-winning Sun Peaks Bike Park, featuring over 40 lift-accessed trails stretching down 2,000 vertical feet, alongside 30 km of cross-country valley biking paths. 


From mid-July to mid-August, the mountainsides erupt into a colorful kaleidoscope of wild alpine flowers, easily accessible via a scenic summer chairlift ride. Visitors can also enjoy high-altitude golf, local culinary festivals, and exceptional stargazing opportunities away from city light pollution.

The entire resort base functions as an intimate, car-free village where one can literally ski or walk straight from your hotel room to local amenities. The core area features boutique shops, gear rentals, small grocery markets, and a rich dining scene full of cosy cafes, local pubs, and fine eateries.


Accessible via the Crystal and Burfield chairlifts, the highest lift-accessed point in Sun Peaks offers panoramic, 360-degree views of the surrounding Monashee and Cariboo mountain ranges. Located right at the base of the village is British Columbia's highest elevation 18-hole golf course, surrounded by dramatic mountain backdrops.

We walked across a picturesque, alpine-style wooden covered bridge that arches over the Louis Creek tributary to officially enter the pedestrian-only zone. Underneath the bridge, a quiet mountain brook flows directly through a beautiful garden, making it one of the most popular and romantic outdoor wedding ceremony locations in the area. 

The venue sits directly across from the first tee of the Sun Peaks Golf Course, making it incredibly accessible and just a short walk from the main village. It can host up to 200 guests for a ceremony. 

In the summer, it is surrounded by lush green lawns and vibrant, blooming flower gardens, so couples rarely need to bring extensive extra decor. While it is a floral paradise in the summer, it transforms into a snow-covered winter wonderland for couples looking for a snowy alpine wedding. Because it is a covered bridge, wedding photographers frequently use the inside of the structure for portrait sessions if it happens to rain.

The Village Promenade (also known as Village Way) is the main thoroughfare, lined with colorful, Bavarian-style architecture, boutique ski/bike shops, and local artisan galleries. In the winter, this path is covered in packed snow for skiers to glide through; in summer, it transforms into a lively brick walkway.

Located right outside the Sun Peaks Grand Hotel & Conference Centre is the iconic clock tower, which serves as the heart of the resort. It is a popular meeting spot, surrounded by outdoor patios, fire pits, and stone seating. 

Nearby, located near the base of the Morrisey lift bridge, is the Village Common Fire Pit—a large, public stone fire pit that is the perfect final stop to sit down, warm up, and people-watch. Another famous landmark is the Nancy Greene Lodge (often just called Cahilty Lodge), one of the most popular places to stay in Sun Peaks Resort. Named after Nancy Greene, Canada’s Olympic alpine ski champion and the resort's long-time director of Skiing, it is highly regarded for its warm, family-friendly hospitality.

Leaving the alpine paradise behind, our bus rolled south through the dramatic Fraser Canyon until we reached the town of Hope, BC. Hope’s claim to fame is twofold: it sits at an incredibly beautiful confluence of the Fraser River and the Coquihalla River, and it is the exact place where Sylvester Stallone sprinted away from the police in the 1982 film First Blood.


We embarked on the walking town tour and found ourselves standing on a street corner matching up film stills of Rambo blowing up a gas station. To add to the ambience, Hope is the chainsaw carving capital of the universe, with over 80 massive wooden sculptures scattered around.

Most of these masterpieces are carved from local western red cedar during Hope’s biannual International Chainsaw Carving Competition and remain on permanent display. The sculptures are grouped into distinct, recurring themes that reflect the heritage, wilderness, and pop culture history of the region.

One can stroll down Wallace Street to marvel at these massive, detailed wooden sculptures. The legendary Rambo Carving and the Sheriff Will Teasle Carving pay homage to the town's film history. The striking, life-sized wooden carving of Sylvester Stallone's character and the Sheriff Will Teasle statue honor the cinematic rivals, completing the town's tribute to its Hollywood past. 

Other notable carvings include "Bart" the Grizzly Bear (a massive, lifelike bear sculpture), Eagles & Totems, the Gold Prospector (capturing a rugged gold miner), the Pioneer Pack Mule, and RCMP Service Dog "Chip" (a touching memorial statue dedicated to a fallen local service dog). 

Right next to the shopping district is Memorial Park & Hope Friendship Garden, a tranquil park featuring giant trees, the Rotary Clock, and Japanese-style landscaping.

The town has a deep history; initially, the area was home to First Nations people. The Hudson’s Bay Company later established a trading post here called Fort Hope in 1848, and just 10 years later, the town exploded overnight due to the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush.


In 1885, the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway securely tied British Columbia to the rest of Canada. Decades later, in 1982, production crews transformed the quiet mountain town into "Hope, Washington" for First Blood, and film tourism remains a cornerstone of the town's identity to this day.

By lunchtime, my hubby and I were starved and tired, dodging the wooden bears.We tracked down a local spot for a massive plate of fish and chips. It was crisp, greasy perfection, the kind of meal that requires a nap immediately afterwards.I had to gently nudge my hubby from slipping into a food coma right on the tour bus before we hit the highway again.

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The final leg required our trusty bus driver to battle the heavy Vancouver traffic to reach the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal. Calling the BC Ferries vessel a "ship" may make it sound like we boarded the Titanic minus the icebergs, but it was really a massive, hyper-efficient floating cafeteria that somehow swallowed our entire tour bus and many others into its belly.


Once on board for the voyage across the Strait of Georgia, my hubby and I engaged in the traditional ferry protocols of walking up to the outer deck, only to realize it was incredibly windy and freezing cold. We hurriedly retreated inside to buy overpriced coffee.

We eventually went back outside because someone in our tour group whispered the word "orca." We didn't see any whales, though my hubby did point excitedly at three separate pieces of driftwood and a very large seagull.

As the ship sailed through the stunning Active Pass, dodging tiny islands, the chaos of the road melted away; the blue water mesmerised and calmed the mind. The ship docked at Swartz Bay, our bus rolled out onto Vancouver Island, and we finally arrived in Victoria.


 



 

YOU SURE WON OUR HEARTS ! DEAR VICTORIA - CANADA JOURNEY

After our cruise ship docked in Victoria, we passed the Fisherman's Wharf, the Grand Parliament Buildings, and Government Street. We the...