TOTEM POLES AND DUCKS IN VANCOUVER -CANADA JOURNEY

The next morning, we reluctantly left Victoria and cruised the Salish Sea on BC Ferries, which operates one of the largest marine highway networks. Our wonderful tour manager had booked our tickets in advance, which saved me from watching my hubby have a logistical meltdown at the terminal gates.

As the primary passenger and vehicle marine highway operator along coastal British Columbia, BC Ferries manages a massive network where a fleet of 41 vessels serves 47 ports of call across 25 distinct routes. 

The travel route from Victoria to Vancouver is approximately 72 miles, combining a highway drive on both ends with a spectacular 90-minute marine crossing.

As soon as we got on the ferry, my hubby wanted to stretch out on a deck chair and catch a nap, but I dragged him to the outer decks because I absolutely refuse to miss wildlife, LOL! As we squeezed through the Active Pass—a channel so narrow between Galiano and Mayne Islands, I could practically see what the islanders were having for breakfast—nature absolutely showed off. 

We saw bald eagles circling the trees, harbour seals sunbathing on rocks, and a pod of killer whales breaching the surface. My hubby was busy photographing the historic white-and-red Georgina Point Lighthouse, located on the rocky shores of Mayne Island. It marks the eastern entrance of Active Pass and makes for a classic West Coast photo.

The ship glided closely past the pristine, forested coastlines of Salt Spring Island, Pender Island, and Galiano Island, giving us a front-row seat to quiet bays and waterfront cabins. As usual, I was yearning for one until my hubby reminded me that we don’t stay in Canada.

As we pulled into Tsawwassen, we had beautiful views of the Fraser River delta and the massive coastal mountains towering over Metro Vancouver. We arrived, disembarked, and headed into Vancouver.

We were driven straight to Stanley Park, a massive, 1,001-acre urban rainforest that makes New York's Central Park look like a potted plant. 

We alighted from our bus and looked at the Vancouver Sea Wall, the world's longest uninterrupted waterfront path, stretching 17.4 miles. It was flat and paved; and had the seaside walkway and the cycling Path.

As we walked along the waterfront path, we passed a striking 9-foot bronze monument depicting a male track star bursting forward as his chest broke the finish-line tape; it is Harry Jerome, created by prominent local sculptor Jack Harman and unveiled in 1988.

Harry Winston Jerome was one of Canada’s most legendary track-and-field athletes. The monument stands on a stone pedestal off the pedestrian walkway, allowing photographers to capture his silhouette sprinting against Vancouver downtown skyline, Coal Harbour, and Canada Place.

Our first stop was the famous First Nations Totem Poles at Brockton Point, British Columbia’s most visited tourist attraction. Carved from western red cedar, these stunning monumental sculptures serve as a powerful introduction to First Nations artistry, storytelling, and regional history. 

A common misconception is that totem poles are religious idols, but they were never worshipped. Instead, the figures carved on the poles represent family crests, clan lineages, and notable clan achievements. 

Specific animals convey unique ancestral meanings: "Eagle" represents the kingdom of the air. "Whale" signifies lordship of the sea. "Wolf" embodies the genius of the land, and "Frog" represents a transitional link between land and sea.

The Vancouver Parks Board began buying and assembling the poles in the 1920s to create a replica First Nations village. Ironically, this tourist attraction was built during the same era that the Canadian government enforced the Potlatch Ban, which outlawed the very ceremonies where totem poles were traditionally raised.

Furthermore, most of the historic poles are not native to the local Vancouver area; they were brought in from northern BC nations.

By the 1980s, natural elements had heavily weathered the original wood. To preserve them, the historic poles were moved to protective museums, like the Museum of Anthropology at UBC. The Park Board then commissioned master carvers to create the exact, vibrant replicas that stand in the park today.

We viewed the striking line-up of poles, alongside newer pieces that explicitly honour the local territory.

Robert Yelton Memorial Pole (2009) is the newest pole and the only one created by a local-area artist. It stands noticeably taller on its own near the entrance, featuring a traditional, less colorful Coast Salish style. It was raised directly in front of the site where Yelton's family lived before being evicted by the city in 1935.

Thunderbird House Post was carved by legendary artist Charlie James in the early 1900s; this massive post shows a mythical Thunderbird with its wings spread wide. 

"People Amongst the People" Gateways (2008) were designed by Coast Salish artist Susan Point; these three striking red cedar portals frame the visitor centre area. 

Next, we headed up to Prospect Point, the highest point in Stanley Park and one of Vancouver's most historic observation points. Situated at the northern tip of the park along the First Narrows of Burrard Inlet, it is known in the local Squamish language as Chay-thoos, meaning "high bank." 

The broad, fully wheelchair-accessible viewing platform offers a premier, 270-degree vantage point for sweeping views of the North Shore Mountains, passing cruise ships, and the Lions Gate Bridge. 

We also spotted the Prospect Point Café & Ice Cream shop, a perfect pit stop to grab a coffee or a sweet treat to enjoy on the patio. The weather was hot, and we hurriedly ate an ice cream as our coach laughingly refused to let any of us enter the bus with an ice cream in hand.

The bridge itself was a majestic, bright-green suspension landmark. Officially named the First Narrows Bridge, it opened in 1938 to connect downtown Vancouver to the North Shore municipalities. 

Its construction was entirely funded by the famous Guinness beer family in the 1930s to open up real estate development. The name "Lions Gate" refers to the Lions, a prominent pair of twin mountain peaks on the North Shore that the bridge directly faces.

Because of its dramatic design, it has starred in several films, serving as the setting for the bridge collapse in Final Destination 5 and appearing in Tron: Legacy and Deadpool 2.

Next on our agenda was Canada Place; we drove to the outdoor "Canadian Trail" promenade along the western side. It offered incredible, unobstructed views of the North Shore Mountains, the busy harbour, and seaplanes taking off.

Canada Place is Vancouver’s most iconic waterfront landmark, instantly recognisable by its massive, white fabric roofs that resemble five glowing sails.

Built originally as the Canada Pavilion for the Expo 86 World's Fair, it has evolved into a bustling multi-use hub in the heart of downtown. It serves as a majestic architectural marvel, the region's main cruise ship terminal, and a premier venue for world-class community.

On the way, we saw the famous collection of giant, grinning bronze figures by English Bay Beach. At first glance, I mistook them for goblins due to their bare chests and dramatically exaggerated facial features; they are actually known as the "Laughing Men" statues. 

14 bronze statues, which are nearly 10 feet tall, each depicting the acclaimed Chinese artist Yue himself in various states of hysterical laughter. They were created for the 2009–2011 Vancouver Biennale.

They became so popular that magnate Chip Wilson and his wife Shannon bought them for $1.5 million and donated them to the city. 

The area was open, and we saw visitors walking through the labyrinth, touching the bronze, and mimicking the playful poses.

Because we had a flight out the next morning, our tour manager booked us at the Accent Inns Vancouver Airport. This place is an absolute gem for anyone tired of stuffy corporate hotels, leaning hard into unpretentious, light-hearted comedy. Parking is completely free, a mythical feature in the Vancouver area.

Their sense of humor shone through witty signs displayed all over the property; the elevator was labelled a "Flight Simulator" due to the nearby airport.

The room pens openly told us, "And always take the pens LOL!" which I promptly did.

The outdoor benches featured reminders that resting with a coffee is way better than exercising. A cleaning sandwich board warned us, "Spring cleaning never killed anyone, but why risk it?"

The absolute highlight is that every guest gets a free signature yellow rubber duck at check-in. 

I was delighted to see a giant Scrabble board with magnetic letters in the lounge.

Canada and the towering, snow-capped peaks of the Canadian Rockies left us feeling humbled. We took home beautiful memories of the turquoise glacial waters of lakes like Lake Louise and the ancient rainforests of British Columbia. Canada is a place where nature is not just a backdrop but the main character.

Canada's urban centres beautifully reflect its multicultural heart, highlighting distinct city personalities; we loved Toronto's towering skyline and global food scene, Vancouver's perfect harmony of ocean and mountains, and Victoria's historic beauty and grace. 

Beyond the scenery, the true warmth of Canada lies in its people, whose reputation for genuine kindness, inclusivity, and a relaxed pace of life is felt everywhere. 

Ultimately, a trip through Canada was a reminder of how vast and pristine the world can still be; it left us with a deep desire to return and explore what lies beyond the next horizon.

YOU SURE WON OUR HEARTS ! DEAR VICTORIA - CANADA JOURNEY

After our cruise ship docked in Victoria, we passed the Fisherman's Wharf, the Grand Parliament Buildings, and Government Street. We then drove through Beacon Hill Park to be dropped off at our hotel, where we checked in.

The next day, we visited the world-famous Butchart Gardens, whose origin is pure, unadulterated, petty genius. Back in 1904, a pioneer named Robert Butchart built a booming cement factory on a rich limestone deposit at Tod Inlet. By 1909, he had completely mined out the limestone, leaving behind a massive, barren, and aggressively ugly pit. His wife, Jennie Butchart, looked out the window at this industrial wasteland and emphatically said, "Absolutely not."

Jennie had a vision. She commissioned horse-drawn carts to painstakingly haul in tons of rich topsoil from nearby farmlands to bury her husband's industrial disaster. Today, it is a National Historic Site of Canada that welcomes over a million people a year.

After presenting our tickets at the main admission gate, we entered the garden and walked into Waterwheel Square, which serves as the central orientation hub. It featured a rustic wood-and-stone waterwheel surrounded by immaculate, seasonal floral borders. From there, we followed the main path, which plunged into a heavily forested canopy of native Pacific Northwest trees.

The path led to a spectacular stone lookout. From this vantage point, we got our first panoramic view of the Sunken Garden, the crown jewel of the estate. We walked down a winding path into what was once the floor of the limestone quarry, where the towering 50-foot rock walls were draped in ivy and climbing plants. Beds of vibrant annuals, manicured lawns, and rare shrubs formed a multi-layered tapestry of color. 

A massive, mound-shaped rock outcropping stood in the center, offering an elevated view. Tucked into the far end of the quarry was the Ross Fountain, added in 1964. It projects intricate, dancing water patterns up to 70 feet into the air against a backdrop of the stark quarry walls.

We exited the quarry floor up a gentle switchback. The path guided us through a forested trail populated with bronze deer statues before emerging onto the open, expansive Concert Lawn.

The Children's Pavilion housed the Rose Carousel, a custom-made, handcrafted wooden carousel built in 2009 that featured thirty carved animals. To my amusement, I could see more adults riding it than children. Nearby sat a massive bronze dragon fountain, which was a gift from Suzhou, China.

Next we passed through the formal Rose Garden. Active from summer through early autumn, this section features long, parallel flower beds bordered by boxwood hedges, showcasing over 250 varieties of roses. Walking beneath the fragrant, rose-laden wooden arches brought us past a frog fountain; our senses were overpowered by the powerful sweet aroma of the roses.

A dramatic change in atmosphere happened as we passed beneath a traditional red Torii gate to enter the Japanese Garden, designed in 1906. Here, the bright, open floral displays gave way to a shaded, tranquil environment dominated by shades of green, rust, and brown.                                           

The space featured winding streams, wooden footbridges, stone lanterns, and a serene koi pond framed by a rare collection of Japanese maples, azaleas, and rare Himalayan blue poppies. The path skirts along the edge of the inlet before turning back inland.

Emerging from the Japanese Garden, we encountered the Star Pond, a geometric, twelve-pointed water feature originally designed for Mr. Butchart’s collection of ornamental ducks. A bronze frog sat at the center of the pond, spouting water.

Directly adjacent was the Italian Garden, which was originally the Butchart family's tennis court. Designed in a formal, classical Italian style, it featured symmetrical cross-shaped ponds and elegant stone arches.

The path concluded at the Piazza, the historic courtyard fronting the original Butchart family residence, which is now home to the Dining Room Restaurant. Before leaving, the route led directly into the sprawling Seed and Gift Shop, where visitors can buy packaged seeds of the flowers. Exiting the shop placed us right back in Waterwheel Square where we started.

The grounds are home to several incredible sculptures .A magnificent bronze statue of a wild boar stands prominently near the entrance to the Italian Garden and the Piazza. Cast in Florence, Italy, it is a replica of a famous 17th-century masterpiece. Visitors traditionally rub the boar’s snout for good luck and drop a coin into the fountain basin below, with all proceeds donated to local charities.

Guarding the entryway near the historic Butchart Residence are two massive, regal bronze lions. Purchased by the Butchart family during their European travels in the early 1900s, they give the piazza a grand, classical European atmosphere.

Located near the exit pathway just outside the Seed and Gift Shop, an intricate bronze fountain features three beautifully sculpted sturgeon fish leaping from the water. It was cast in Florence using the traditional lost-wax method and adds a dynamic, fluid visual right at the exit.

The garden was originally named "Benvenuto" (Italian for "welcome") and used to host the public for tea and concerts. Today, it takes 50 full-time gardeners and 26 greenhouses to keep Jennie’s magnificent display of spite looking pristine.

The next day, we decided to get a bird's-eye view of the city by hopping on an open-top, double-decker bus tour operated by Gray Line Sightseeing. Our driver was a wonderful lady with a great sense of humour.

We cruised past the majestic, ivy-covered Fairmont Empress Hotel, one of Canada's most celebrated grand railway hotels. It was designed in 1908 by Francis Rattenbury, who also designed the majestic Parliament Buildings next door.

Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway to mimic a grand French chateau, it was aimed at attracting wealthy luxury travelers arriving on steamships. Named after Queen Victoria (who was also the Empress of India), the hotel has hosted everyone from King George VI to Queen Elizabeth II, alongside Hollywood royalty like Shirley Temple and John Wayne.

We then visited Craigdarroch Castle, an imposing stone mansion built in the late 1880s by Robert Dunsmuir, a Scottish immigrant who became Western Canada's wealthiest coal baron. In a tragic twist of fate, he died just months before his mega-mansion was completed.

While Victoria is made of grand stone buildings, ocean breezes, and historic neighbourhoods, riding on the top deck of the bus turned out to be a tactical operation. 

We crossed the Johnson Street Bridge, affectionately known to locals as the "Blue Bridge," which is one of downtown Victoria's defining modern landmarks. It spans the narrow waterway connecting the Inner Harbour and the Upper Harbour.

Because of Victoria’s unique, mild Mediterranean climate, the city is an absolute jungle of rare and massive trees. As the bus wound through residential streets, we were surrounded by giant Garry Oaks (a protected, gnarly native species) and colossal Giant Sequoias imported by wealthy settlers 150 years ago. We quickly realized that if you stand up on the top deck, you risk getting slapped in the face by a century-old exotic branch, so it was better to remain safely seated.

We also drove under the Gate of Harmonious Interest into Chinatown, which is the oldest in Canada and the second-oldest in North America. While there, we peered down Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street on the continent.

Our final stop was the southern edge of Beacon Hill Park along Dallas Road to find Mile Zero. This spot marks the official western terminus of the massive 8,000-kilometer Trans-Canada Highway. Standing right at the edge of the coast was a deeply moving bronze monument of Terry Fox, captured in his signature mid-stride, hop-and-skip running motion with his prosthetic leg.

In 1980, after losing his leg to cancer, Terry started his "Marathon of Hope," attempting to run across the entire country to raise money for cancer research. He planned to finish his epic journey right here at Mile Zero. Tragically, his cancer returned, forcing him to stop in Ontario after 143 days and 5,373 kilometres. He passed away the following year at just 22 years of age. The statue stands as a beautiful commemoration of the exact finish line he spent his final months striving toward.

Looking past the statue across the deep blue water, we could see the spectacular, snow-capped Olympic Mountains glowing in the distance, which are actually located across the US border in Washington State.

In the heart of the 200-acre park, we stumbled upon the Beacon Hill Park Teapot. It is a giant, bright blue novelty teapot that literally pours water out of its spout into a children's wading pool. 

We finished our tour by passing the southwest corner of the Fairmont Empress property to see the Emily Carr Statue, unveiled in 2010.

Titled "Our Emily," the bronze sculpture perfectly captures the eccentric spirit of one of Victoria's most beloved artists. She is depicted sitting with her sketchpad, looking out at the harbour. The best part, however, is her companions: her faithful dog Billie at her side and a Javanese pet monkey named Woo playfully perched on her shoulder.

By afternoon, we were dropped off for lunch. Following our driver's excellent suggestion, we went to an eatery in the Inner Harbour called Red Fish Blue Fish. It operates out of an upcycled, 20-foot shipping container right on the wooden pier at 1006 Wharf Street.

Started in 2007 by the founders Simon Sobolewski and Libby Gibson, it gained massive popularity thanks to its unique shipping-container design, 100% sustainable local seafood, and iconic dockside dining experience. Because it has been featured on the Food Network and in major travel guides, the zigzagging line is legendary—often stretching from 30 minutes to over an hour.

We waited it out and ordered their famous wild Pacific halibut fish and chips (cooked in an incredibly light, crisp tempura batter) and their signature "Tacones"—sustainable fish tacos brilliantly rolled into a handheld flour tortilla cone.

Dining there was entirely outdoors along the bustling pier, we sat on barstools watching seaplanes land. In the water below, wild Harbour Seals popped their heads straight up, looking at us with giant, cheeky puppy-dog eyes, begging for a stray piece of seafood. Meanwhile overhead, the local seagulls were busy planning to steal our food.

I found Victoria very beautiful, windy, historic, and delightfully weird. The city somehow manages to perfectly balance its refined, ultra-British tea-and-symphony vibe with a delightfully wild undercurrent.