After a long wait at Hanoi Airport, we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City late in the evening. We were taken to our hotel directly after dinner; this time our room was fairly big.
The next morning, after the complimentary breakfast, we went on a day tour to Cu Chi tunnels.
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is the most populous city in Vietnam, with a population of over 14 million as of 2025.
It is the busiest international transport hub in Vietnam, with Tan Son Nhat International Airport accounting for nearly half of all international arrivals to Vietnam, and Saigon Port is among the busiest container ports in Southeast Asia.
The area was initially part of Cambodian polities until it came under the control of the Vietnamese Nguyen lords in 1698. After the fall of the Citadel of Saigon, during the Cochinchina campaign in 1859, it became the capital of Cochinchina from 1862 to 1949.
After France recognised Vietnam's independence and unity, it served as the capital of the State of Vietnam from 1949 to 1955. Following the 1954 partition, it became the capital of South Vietnam until it was captured by North Vietnam, leading to a unified communist state in 1976.
The city was subsequently renamed after North Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh, while Saigon is still being used informally.
In 2025, the Bình Dương and Bà Rịa–Vũng Tàu provinces were merged into Ho Chi Minh City, making it a megacity after acquiring the industrial towns and coastal cities of the two former provinces.
On our way from Ho Chi Minh City to the Cu Chi tunnels, after a 1.5-hour drive, we stopped at a handicraft workshop, a social enterprise/employment program designed to support people with disabilities. We were surprised to see people there creating magic with their imagination and skills .
There was detailed artwork, including lacquerware, paintings made from eggshells, mother of pearl, and rose wood, they were so beautiful. Our guide told us that the workers were all victims of Agent Orange.
I was giving my hubby meaningful looks, which he intentionally avoided as he can recognise the mements when my heart melts, and his purse gets lighter, L.O.L!
The products in the centre were indeed very nice and of high quality; some of us bought a few items to encourage and support the artists.
Agent Orange is a herbicide and defoliant that contains the toxic chemical dioxin used by the U.S. military during the Vietnam War (1962–1971) to destroy the country’s forest cover and crops.
Its use caused widespread ecological damage and serious long-term health issues, like cancers, diabetes, and birth defects in both Vietnamese civilians and exposed veterans. .
At last, we reached the much-awaited Cu Chi tunnels and followed our guide from the bus parking to the park.
The weather was humid, and as it had rained heavily the previous night, the ground was muddy and slippery. I felt that we were indeed seeing the tunnels in their true colours
The first thing we saw were the maps, which provided details and routes about the tunnels. The second map featured the cross-section of the tunnels and was worth a second look. There were theoretical locations of the booby traps, dead ends, routes to drinking water, and escape paths to the Mekong River.
As we proceeded ahead, we saw thatched huts with TVs and wooden benches inside. We watched documentaries on the Vietnam War and the Cu Chi tunnels and were horrified.
After reunification, Vietnam Government has preserved and shaped the 75-mile-long complex of tunnels at Củ Chi into a war memorial park with two different tunnel display sites, Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc. The tunnels are a popular tourist attraction, and visitors are invited to get to the safer parts of the tunnel system and safely explore.
The Tunnels of Cu Chi, a gigantic underground tunnel system, was originally constructed under the jungle terrain, connecting tunnels among the hamlets and communes during the Indochina War (1945-1954) against the French colonialists. It served as hiding spots for Vietnam revolutionary troops to commute between different regions and evade French scouts discreetly.
During the Vietnam War, the network had been expanded into an assembly complex for Communist guerrilla soldiers to house troops, transport communications and supplies, receive medical treatments, take shelter from aerial bombardment, and mount surprise attacks, after which they could disappear underneath the ground.
As a military headquarters, Cu Chi Tunnels played a pivotal role in the Vietnamese forces' resistance to the American army in South Vietnam. It served as an isolated stronghold to plan strategies and launch successful military campaigns.
The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American and ARVN forces, and helped to counter the growing American military presence.
Throughout the country's turbulent history, these iconic Saigon tunnels witnessed the sufferings in the fierce wars and symbolised the tenacity and resourcefulness of the Vietnamese people.
The Ben Duoc site contains part of the original tunnel system and some tunnels have been made larger to accommodate tourists. In both sites, low-power lights have been installed in the tunnels to make travelling through them easier, and both sites have displays of the different types of booby traps that were used.
Ben Dinh War Tunnels, a part of the Cu Chi Tunnels network, is famous for its part in the victory of the Indochina Wars. Located around 50 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City, the tunnel has been preserved well despite its age.
Ben Dinh War Tunnels were built entirely by the hands of thousands of Vietnamese people with rudimentary tools like hoes and shovels. Due to frequent air raids, the tunnel had to be dug frequently.
American soldiers used the term "Black Echo" to describe the conditions within the tunnels. For the Viet Cong, life in the tunnels was difficult. Air, food, and water were scarce, and the tunnels were infested with ants, venomous centipedes, snakes, scorpions, spiders, and rodents.
Most of the time, soldiers would spend the day in the tunnels working or resting and come out only at night to scavenge for supplies, tend their crops, or engage the enemy in battle.
During periods of heavy bombing or American troop movement, they would be forced to remain underground for many days. Sickness was rampant among the people living in the tunnels, especially malaria which was the second largest cause of death next to battle wounds.
We were shown the death traps laid by the Vietnamese soldiers, many rectangular pits opened before us with revolving trap doors and spikes at the bottom. These were devised to trap and wound the enemy soldiers, in fact, animal manure was added in the pits to infect the wounds.
Some of the entrances to the tunnels were so small that we wondered how any human being could fit in them.
There was a small, rectangular hole, which is the most frequently pictured in all these tunnels. Some of the youngsters in our group tried to get in and succeeded, although they came out muddy and breathless in the bargain, but it led nowhere, as a bomb had carved out a crater, destroying the tunnel.
We came across many holes and mounts scattered across the park, almost resembling snake pits or animal burrows. These were the breathing mounds, which the Viet Cong built to aerate the tunnels. They did this by creating mounds and inserting hollowed bamboo sticks.
The Americans tried filling the tunnels with water or gases to purge the inhabitants and sent military dogs in to detect the troops. The Viet Cong inhibited their keen sense of smell using pepper bombs and repurposed the belongings left behind by the Americans to confuse the dogs.
The tunnels of Củ Chi were noticed by U.S. officials, who recognized the advantages that the Viet Cong held with the tunnels and so launched several major campaigns to search out and destroy the tunnel system. Among the most important was Operation Crimp.
Operation Crimp began on January 7, 1966, with B - 52 bombers dropping 30-ton loads of high explosives onto the region of Củ Chi, effectively turning the once lush jungle into a pockmarked moonscape.
However, this did not bring about the desired success. For instance, when troops found a tunnel, they would often underestimate its size. No one was usually sent in to search the tunnels, as it was so hazardous and the tunnels were often rigged with explosive booby traps or punji stick pits.
However, an Australian specialist engineering troop, under the command of Captain Alexander Macgregor ventured into the tunnels, which they searched exhaustively for four days, and found ammunition, radio equipment, medical supplies, food, and signs of considerable Viet Cong .
The men were referred to as "tunnel ferrets or rats “ these were an elite group of volunteers trained in the art of tunnel warfare, armed only with a handgun, a knife, a flashlight, and a piece of string, they would enter a tunnel by themselves and travel inch-by-inch cautiously looking ahead for booby traps or cornered PLAF, there were casualities on both sides of course, war is never pleasant for anyone .
We saw a few underground rooms with dioramas of people melting scraps to make ammunition, cooking or resting. We also saw sandals made from old tyres, extremely durable sandals suitable for the harsh jungle terrain!
Women soldiers were valuable to the Viet Cong troops as they were nimbler and skilled, but their life must have been tough, especially during their menstrual periods.
At the end of the tour, steamed tapioca with sesame salt and pandan tea, are given to all tourists. Tapioca or sweet potato is easy to grow, and is a filling nourishment for war survivors.
In recognition of the tunnel’s unique structure and great historical significance, Ho Chi Minh City is taking necessary steps to ensure that the Cu Chi Tunnels can be listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
As we went around, we found a M41 tank of the US Army that was captured by the Vietnamese guerrillas in 1970
.There was a show of mannequins simulating a meeting going on, which prompted some of us to join for a snap.
There was a shooting range that offered travellers a chance to shoot real guns, such as AK47 or M16.
At the end of the tour, steamed tapioca with sesame salt and pandan tea, are given to all tourists. Tapioca or sweet potato is easy to grow, and is a filling nourishment for war survivors.
When we came out, we saw a souvenir area where one can purchase souvenirs made from bullet casings, oil lamps, lighters, ballpoint pens, straps, or sandals made from old tyres, and many handmade products from the craft villages in Cu Chi.
The war has devastated the landscape of Vietnam and vast areas of the fertile, green, agricultural land were destroyed, but luckily the natural habitat of the country has recovered, its land again has filled with green valleys and is producing healthy rice fields.
The Vietnamese people I met during my tour didn’t appear bitter or disillusioned; they had simply moved on with their lives. I realized that they were like our Indians, whose farmers have a great affinity for the land and harbour immense values for society and family.
The three religions of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism, fortunately, still remain an integral part of Vietnamese life.
After the tunnel visit, we had lunch in a restaurant named Haldi, which offered us authentic Indian food, we left the restaurant fully satiated, telling the owner that he had touched our guts and our hearts too.
