OH DEAR ! EVERYWHERE A DEER IN NARA -JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 6
We entered the 1600 acres Nara park and  to our surprise could see hundreds of deer going around  keenly looking at the tourists and their hands

We purchased deer-crackers from one of the many stalls there to feed the deer in the park. The crackers are composed of wheat flour and rice bran with no sugar added
 I happened to look at a small boy happily trying to eat them , he didn’t like the taste and spit it out and got butted meanwhile by  indignant deer who probably felt cheated

If the deer found that tourists had some food in their hands ,they would give a deep bow and grab the crackers from them. We all were definitely having a hectic time trying to avoid stepping on the deer shit and looking at the deer bowing for crackers .

 One poor lady had her pretty and fluffy brown lace skirt almost eaten off by some young toddler deer who probably mistook it for crackers
These deer were wild Sika deer which freely roam around in the park and are considered national treasures.
Story of Sika Deer of Nara goes back to the Nara Period (710-794 CE) when the capital of Japanese civilization was established in the area of Nara City. As per local folklore, Takemikazuchi-no-mikoto, one of the four gods of Kasuga shrine was invited to Nara from Kashima shrine and appeared riding a white deer. From then, the deer were considered divine and sacred and killing one of these sacred deer was a capital offense punishable by death up until 1637

The number of deer grew in the post war period to around 1,200 in 2008, leading to concerns about environmental and crop damage and discussion of culling started in 2017, with a limit of 120 deer  per year  As of July 2017 there are around 1,500 deer living in the park.

After an exciting and novel time with the deer we proceeded inside and came across the main gate of Tōdai-ji the Great South Gate.

The original one erected during the Nara period, was destroyed by a typhoon. The present structure dates to the Kamakura period and was built using the “Daibutsu style.” It is the largest temple entrance gate in Japan.
 It had Eighteen giant pillars, each 21 m height, support the roof with the entire structure rising to about 25 meters above the stone plinth on which it rests.

As we walked in further ,we saw on either side of us two  ferocious and muscular statues,  the guardians of the Great South Gate, known as Nio Guardian Kings, Kongo Rikishi or Vajradharas
They are monumental works sculpted in just sixty-nine days and measure 8.4 meters in height and fashioned out of cypress wood .

One statue had the mouth open, the other had the mouth closed and they were said to represent life and death
 The choice of materials in Japanese temples is always wood in various forms like planks, straw, tree bark, the use of stone is avoided except in temple podia and pagoda foundations.

Buddhism originated in India and was brought to Japan via China and Korea. Buddhism in Japan is more a part of the culture of Japan rather than a religion and many cultural traditions in Japan are derived from Buddhism.
Buddhism is the religion in Japan with 69.8% Buddhists in a 2015 government survey. After China, Japan has the second largest Buddhist population in the world, with approximately 89 to 122 million Buddhists.

Almost 90% of funerals in Japan are performed by Buddhist monks. Shintoism is an indigenous religion of Japan, which believes that all things have a spirit called “kami” or gods and are worshipped
The Japanese word “Zen” comes from the Chinese word “Chan,” which in turn came from the Indian word “Dhyana” meaning the practice of meditation.
The Japanese tend to consider themselves non-religious, but they visit both Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. Shinto shrines are coloured a brilliant red, and have a “Torii” gate at the entrance and statues of foxes, dogs, or other animals guarding the shrine. There is a water basin where people purify their hands and mouth before entering which reminded me of our habit of washing hands and feet before entering temples
Japanese temples have a decorated rope with bells hanging down from the ceiling , rope is shaken to ring the bells and rouse the gods. Japanese clap their hands twice, and pray with folded hands ,bow again before leaving. Indians also ring a bell and bow with hands folded and eyes closed
At a Buddhist temple, exterior of the temple is usually just natural wood without any extravagant decorations. However, inside the main temple building where the statue of Buddha is enshrined, it is lavishly decorated in a gold color.
The Todai ji temple is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Sites as one of the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara" and is also used as the mother base of the Buddhist school of Koon and was built by emperor Shomu and his consort, Empress Komyo

We then walked to the Great Buddha Hall or Main Hall of Tōdai-ji. Built first in the Nara period it has been destroyed twice by fire in 1180 and again in 1567 . When completed in 752, it measured 50 meters by 86 meters and was supported by 84 massive cypress pillars that used nearly 2200 acres of local forest .

There were a lot of tourists ,some in big groups ,their guides were having a tough time gathering all of them at one place

 As we stood looking at the temple in awe , we found a black Urn semi-filled with ashes. Three troll like creatures held up the urn on their shoulders.

There was a small rectangular box adjacent to the urn called the saisen-bako, where we can drop some money that goes towards the upkeep of the temple grounds.
Just before entering the temple, we found the Octagonal Lantern  2000 years old.

The distinctive large fire chamber (hibukuro) was covered with a sloping roof (kasa) surmounted by a jewel finial (kurin). It rested upon a stone base surrounded by small stone posts emanating from the pedestal. Eight panels made up the fire chamber, ornamented with celestial musicians. The lantern contains four pairs of hinged doors decorated with lions running across clouds.

 When we entered the hall we saw a huge 49 feet ,500 tons bronze Buddha figure (the Daibutsu) created between 743 to 752, sitting upon a bronze lotus petal pedestal engraved with images of the Shaka (the historical Buddha, known also as Shakyamuni) Buddha and varied Bodhisattvas .

The official eye opening ceremony was overseen by the Empress Koken and attended by the retired Emperor Shomu and Empress Komyo, an Indian monk named Bodhisena  painted the Buddha’s eyes, symbolically imbibing it with life

The petal surfaces are etched with fleshy figures with swelling chests, full faces and swirling drapery a naturalism style of Nara era

The petals are the only reminders of the original statue, which was destroyed by fire in the 12th century.

Today’s statue is a 17th century replacement but remains a revered figure with an annual ritual cleaning ceremony each August.
There was a big lamp where we could buy and light candles

The Buddha statue was flanked at either side by 2 other gold colored statues, Nyoirin Kannon; one of the 33 forms of Kannon or Avalokiteśvara, the bodhisattva of compassionate mercy.

Recently, using x-rays, a human tooth, along with pearls, mirrors, swords, and jewels were discovered inside of the knee of the Great Buddha these are believed to be the relics of Emperor Shomu.
 While going around we observed that there was a wooden column supposedly representing the nostril of Buddha .There was a small opening in the column and people were forming a queue to try it out

 My hubby looked at me in panic knowing my adventurous spirit but I didn’t want to take a risk and get stuck in the middle like some and be pulled out and told him so ,I could hear his palpable breath of relief ,anyone passing through that opening was supposed to achieve nirvana
I felt very serene inside the temple. In one of the corners located towards the front of the temple, one can get their fortune read for 100 yen by shaking a container until a numbered stick falls out. A slip is given that corresponds to the number on the stick. and small models of the temple in olden days was displayed

In a corner we could see a replica of the golden horn-shaped decorative roof piece that adorns the roof of Todai-ji.

As we walked towards the back, in a clockwise direction, there were two towering 30-foot-high wooden statues of warriors. The first one was the Kōmokuten, the King of the West typically dressed in armor and standing atop a demon resembling our Kali mata

He is a Hindu deity incorporated into Buddhism as one of the four Shintennō, a group of fierce-looking guardian deities who protect the four cardinal directions of Buddha’s realm. The four are typically placed around the central deity on Buddhist altars.
On the other corner of the hall lies the Tamon-ten carrying a pagoda-shaped treasure house in his right hand and holding a spear with his left hand to ward off distractions.

 Outside the hall, to the right of the temple a wooden statue of Binzuru Pindola Bharadvaja  a follower of Buddha, seated in the lotus position was there

There is a belief that the statue has a gift of healing. A person suffering from an ailment in any part of his body on touching the same part of the Pindola would supposedly get cured.

 Outside the temple there were information desks

 Numerous shops selling souvenir charms to bring good luck, good health, or good fortune were there.

The temple also had a museum, where some of the religious and cultural treasures of the place are displayed ,here again there were many deer

When we came out of the temple a group of school children had gathered ,at a gentle word from their teacher they all sat on their hunches and listened to the instructions

Visiting the Todai -ji temple gave us immense peace ,the Indian Buddha statue and the temple rituals which were very similar to our Indian ones made us feel very proud of our country and its culture

SCHOOL CHILDREN ALL AROUND -JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 5
We had a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel and started for Nara. On the way I was observing the roads which were very clean and cars which were quite unobtrusive and not flashy and people passing by, there was no honking of cars whatsoever and I could see a steady flow of buses providing public transport at regular intervals

We arrived at the Todaiji temple considered as the most influential Buddhist temple in Japan, especially after surviving multiple earthquakes, fires, and political chaos.

We could see a lot of school buses letting out lot of cheerful school children,as we had gone to Japan in July which was a vacation time for schools, everywhere went we could see many school children on their picnics
 The basic school system in Japan is composed of elementary school  ( six years), middle school (three years), high school (three years), and university (four years). Education is compulsory only for the nine years of elementary and middle school, however 98.8% of students go on to high school.

I discovered that education system in Japan was rather unique, apart from mandatory education, the children were also getting trained in ethics, culture and hygiene and I felt this definitely leads to good upbringing

Our interactions with many children of various ages during our trip to Japan showed very well mannered children displaying respect to the elders and an open positive reaction to the other races, they enjoyed interacting with us and asked us few questions too about India and its schools .I observed that the girls and boys were mixing in a friendly manner without any gender bias
The Japanese schools give each student individual numbers which consists of 4 figures. The first two figures are the number of a class and the last two are the personal numbers which are assigned to each student. These numbers are used for library cards, bicycle stickers or for class work or tests
A student in spite of not doing well in exams is not failed and is promoted to next class, results of tests matter only the student has to enter high school or university ,I as a medical teacher felt that this would encourage the slow learners or less intelligent students also to continue their studies and not drop out of school or go into depression and commit suicides
Each school has its own uniform , both summer and winter versions. Children can wear only white, black or dark blue socks. If a student wears any other color, these socks are promptly seized.
 School bags are given to students along with the uniform

 boys are restricted from growing long hair and girls do not have painted nails, colored and curly hair, jewelry and make up. As a result of this uniformity I found that the kids in uniforms were very much alike with no obvious class differences
In Japan, all students have to leave their shoes outside the classroom in their lockers provided and have to wear the same indoor shoes or slippers called “uwabaki inside the classroom,to maintain the cleanliness in the class rooms

Each school has a nutritionist who monitors diet charts of students and creates a menu for every meal. As a rule, there is no cafeteria inside a school and students have to eat what is served , lunch boxes from home are allowed in special occasions. It is interesting to note that teachers eat together with pupils in the classrooms itself, this will surely develop more understanding between teachers and students.

Academic year in Japan starts in April, the next vacation begins at the end of July to August as these months are very stuffy due to high humidity. There is a short vacation from last week of December to first week of January
Japanese schools do not use any cleaning services or janitors. The students clean their classroom themselves, as well as the toilets. The work is shared by staff and even the vice principal and principal of the school.

Japan has most of its schools teaching in Japanese language and International schools are very few unfortunately
Special private schools which offer advanced and supplementary lessons for students who want to achieve high grades and pass entrance examinations exist and these are known as cram schools and are very much in demand.
As we were waiting for our guide to get us the entrance tickets ,I was keenly observing the school children ,they were all looking very excited and were busy buying snacks and drinks from the vending machines .

 Japan has around 5.5 million vending machines with one on almost every street corner. There are vending machines that sell beer, water, hot and cold canned coffee, cigarettes, wine, comic books, hot dogs, light bulbs, bags of rice, toilet paper, umbrellas, fish bait, fresh eggs

Snacks, flowers, porn magazines , condoms and even women’s underwear.

 I felt that vending machines make a good and convenient way for the companies to sell beverages and make money without paying staff
We could find these vending machines every place we visited and we tried to buy some cold coffee and hot tea at same time and could successfully got them both one hot and steaming and the other chilled

SUSHI AND NOODLES -JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 4
I looked out of our hotel window and could see lot of shops, malls and a high tech gym with people busy sweating out
Tully's hand drip coffee shop was in the basement of the hotel  wafting out divine coffee smells.

In the evening we went out for a stroll and had a look at the goods being sold in the convenience stores ,

There were a lot of kitchen articles very useful ones and we were told that Japanese never compromise on quality though pricing may be a little high

But my thrifty middle class mind spontaneously converts the foreign currency into Indian money and goods appear very expensive and moreover our  watchful heavy suitcases warn us not to burden them any more

Dinner we had at an Indian restaurant Zaffran

Most of the restaurants in Japan have Indian owners ,cooks  and waiters were Indians , Bangladeshis and Pakistanis.

In New Zealand while on tour we were searching desperately for Indian food,  when we  finally found one, we went and settled down there , entire décor was very Indianish, food was fantastic but owner was a Bangladeshi, cook was a Srilankan and the waitress was a pretty 6 footer Russian girl, LOL !
 As promised when we were booking the trip, SOTC gave us good Indian food and the timings were strictly adhered too, though at times we felt so stuffed with food that we couldn’t eat any more
Just adjacent to the lobby we had the restaurant with an airy dining room, there was a breakfast buffet (free for children up to 6) from 6.30 to 10 am.

We had to give the slip given with each room key to the person at the front table in restaurant who would greet us “irasshaimase” which meant “welcome and please come in.” Our slip would be placed on an empty table and we could go and sit there, this was all done effortlessly and with utmost courtesy

In the morning during breakfast we would see smartly dressed young ladies and men have their breakfast in the restaurant and briskly go on their way probably to their meetings and offices, one more thing we observed in Japan was the cell phone etiquette ,people would talk very briefly and quietly into their phones ,not wash their dirty linen in public like in some countries

 Almost all lunches and dinners were arranged in Indian restaurants whereas breakfast we had in the hotels we stayed in. Food becomes an issue when we travel out of the country ,we found that we could tolerate all types of local cuisine when we were young ,once we reached 60 and became senior citizens our taste buds started yearning for Indian food and that was the main reason for us to book in a travel agency with Indians ,luckily because it was not a season we were a small group and it was a comfortable tour 
The buffet used to have both Japanese and continental menu ,safe bet while having breakfast would be plenty of soup ,salads,egg ,yoghurt ,brownies ,fruits and desserts .The restaurants in Japan have different soups and a choice of fresh salads and eggs either boiled or in form of omelettes

Normally I am fond of trying the local cuisine but am however  wary of meats other than chicken and mutton.Most of the restaurants in Japan had the item cards displayed

 Japanese are fond of Rice,Noodles ,Vegetables ,Fish such as salmon, mackerel Green tea and fruits like tangerine, persimmons and Fuji grapes.Potato chips are the usual favorites

Japanese personifies Sushi a dish of rice seasoned with vinegar, with some sugar and salt, accompanying a variety of ingredients, such as seafood, often raw, vegetables, and occasionally tropical fruits.

Till I visited Japan I was confusing Sushi with Sashimi which is similar to sushi but without the rice, it is raw fish sliced into easy-to-eat pieces.

The high-quality of the fish caught in all regions of Japan makes it a great choice but as a pathologist I had my doubt whether eating the raw fish would give rise to parasitic infestations .Our guide assured us that flash freezing and usage of vinegar make it safe to consume fish
Some of the most common and popular varieties of fish are maguro and other tuna varieties, salmon, mackerel, and sea bream. Sashimi is typically eaten with soy sauce for flavoring.
Unagi or eel is a river fish. In Japan, it is a delicacy typical in high-class Japanese dining. At Unagi restaurants, one can enjoy Kabayaki, where the Unagi is put on skewers and grilled with a special sauce containing soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and Sake. Unagi is also considered a health food to prevent summer heat weariness for its protein and because it is good for digestion.

In South India too we relish eating a small fish like the eel we call it nethalu which is used in fries
Unadon, a dish of Kabayaki on top of white rice, is also offered at restaurants

Hitsumabushi, a specialty dish from Nagoya, is another must-try traditional dish  as cut-up Kabayaki on top of white rice but it can be eaten in several ways, such as with condiments like green onion and wasabi, or as Ochazuke by pouring warm green tea or broth over it.
Tempura is a dish involving ingredients like seafood, meat, and vegetables covered in batter and deep-fried in oil. The batter usually contains flour and egg.

Throughout our trip in Japan we relished Tempura because it was very similar in taste to fish and chips we used to eat in Australia and New Zealand. Tempura is generally dipped in a special sauce called tentsuyu before eating.
It is said that Japanese are so fond of fish that they eat more than 17 million ton fish per year
Tsukiji market in Tokyo is the world’s largest fish market, handling over 2,000 tons of marine products daily.[
Buddhist laws passed in the 7th century prohibited Japanese from eating meat, only birds and fish were allowed but in the 19th century, the Meiji emperor himself broke the taboo and ate meat
Soba is a noodle dish made from buckwheat flour with water and flour, thinly spread and cut into noodles 1 to 2 cm in size. After boiling the noodles in hot water, it is eaten dipped in cold soup, or by pouring hot soup over it. Soba is enjoyed hot or cold, making it an ideal dish year-round.

Udon is a unique ,popular and traditional dish known for its thick noodles. The dough is made from flour and saltwater that is well-kneaded and cut into noodles. After being boiled in hot water, it is eaten in seafood broth soup, or by pouring soup and toppings like tempura on top of it.

We tried Onigiri, or rice balls which may just look like plain rice, but they often have a savory filling inside and are wrapped with a salty sheet of nori seaweed. They are seen sold in convenience stores and supermarkets.

Yakitori is a popular food where chicken is cut into small pieces, then placed on bamboo skewers and grilled .It reminded us of our exotic varieties of kababs

Sukiyaki is a one-pot wholesome dish cooked in a shallow iron pan, traditionally enjoyed in the fall and winter in Japan and is made with several different ingredients, like thin slices of beef, green onion, mushroom, tofu, and noodles.
We relished the Miso soup another famous Japanese food, renowned for its great taste and health benefits. It is made of the fermented miso base and had a good flavor

Sake is an alcoholic drink made from fermented rice, Koji mould and yeast,it is very popular all over Japan and is served at all types of restaurants and bars. One of our tour members ordered it in a restaurant and pronounced that it was good

Japanese love Kit Kat candy bars which come in many unusual flavors like grilled corn, Camembert cheese, Earl Gray tea, grape, and wasabi.

We observed that it was appropriate to slurp noodles, especially the soba (buckwheat), when eating in Japan. Slurping indicates that the dish is delicious. It also obviously cools down the hot noodles.
 More than 5 billion servings of instant Ramen noodles are consumed in Japan each year. Chef Momofuku Ando invented the first instant “chicken Ramen” in 1958.
 Astonishingly Japan has more than 3,000 McDonald’s restaurants, the largest number in any country outside the U.S.