OSAKHA CASTLE -JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 12
We woke up, had a good breakfast and as instructed by the tour operator got one overnight bag ready to carry our clothes and toiletry to Hiroshima stay for night at the hotel there.
Next we were going by the bullet train to Numazoo after Hiroshima  and the bullet trains do not let us carry such heavy luggage with us. In the lounge we placed our two white elephants and bid them a temporary and happy goodbye and felt much relieved and lighter too

Our first visit was to the Osakha castle which is one of the most spectacular creations in Japan, with a history dating back almost 450 years.

  After the van stopped in the parking ,our guide took us to the castle ,we had to walk for a short distance

on the way she showed us the imposing police head quarters building .

 All around us were modern urban city buildings of high rises and after a brisk walk we came across the castle gates

In 1583, Hideyoshi Toyotomi (1537-1598), a powerful feudal lord and warrior of Sengoku period, built Osaka Castle during a period of unrest following numerous wars over the previous decades. Obsessed with gold, Hideyoshi insisted that gold be applied to the castle’s interior furnishing, these gold motifs also appear on the exterior awnings now

 The entire Osaka Castle Park covers about two square km with lots of green space, sport facilities, a multi-purpose arena (Osakajo Hall) and a shrine dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The park is one of Osakha’s most popular Hanami spots where cherry blossom viewing parties are held during the cherry blossom season in early April.

Osaka Castle stood like a jewel in a green expansive park and there were surrounding moats whose walls stood up to 20 meters tall and 90 meters wide  though there wasn’t much water in them.

From the exterior we could view the main tower of the castle which is the original centerpiece and the most lavishly decorated among the castle structures,it was completed in 1931 and restored in 1997, and made of a steel-framed reinforced concrete structure.
We entered Osaka Castle through the Sakuramon Gate, the main gate of the Castle ground.

Apparently the name of the gate also known as Cherry Gate came due to the long line of Cherry tree planted near the gate during the late 16th century.

The huge stones on both sides of the gate are known as Ryukoishi,  meaning dragon and tiger stones. As per a legend when it rains, an image of a dragon and a tiger appears on the stones

On the left after entering the gate, we saw the Well Curb of the Gimmeisui Well. During the Edo period, this well was located behind the Hommaru palace kitchen and used as a source of drinking water by officials.

When the headquarter building of the Fourth Division was constructed  in 1931, the well curb and the cobbles around the well were brought to the present site, and running water was piped to the new building to provide drinking water.
There we saw the typical well with dippers which are basically large spoons with attached wooden sticks (Hishaku ). People were picking up water, cleaning their hands and mouth , a procedure called  Chōzu-ya  or temizu-ya  a ceremonial purification rite

This procedure I observed everywhere in Japan and reminded me of our holy places where we have water sources and we clean our hands and feet before entering the temples, a concept meant to clean not only the body but also the mind
As we walked along, we came to an area known as the Sakuramon- Masugata Square. This was a contrived stone wall which acted as a trap and was built during early Endo period to protect the front entrance of the castle.

 It forced the warriors to slow or stop before making a sharp turn, while the castle defenders rained spears or weapons on them
One of the stones used for the stone walls inside the gate is called 'Takoishi', the octopus stone , very large and weighing 108 tons. We also saw the third largest stone next to it called 'Furisodeishi', meaning a long-sleeved kimono stone.

We entered the grounds of the castle and stood spell bound by the Osaka Castle which proudly stood like a representative to traditional Japanese architecture, there was a subtle balance of color and the patterns and shapes at each level were beautiful.
The main tower has five visible stories and eight total stories. The exterior of the building is a reproduction of the original.  8 tigers of 4 kinds carved in motifs could be seen decorated in walls along with the Toyotomi family crest and a chrysanthemum flower motif

 Osaka Castle is also famous for its incredibly well-built stone wall, which is impressive in its sheer size, with an estimated 500,000 to 1 million large stones (up to 12 kg) having been used in its construction
Visitors can enter inside castle to see a historical museum, for a small fee . On each floor inside the castle are a wide variety of artifacts detailing the extensive history of Osaka and the castle.
On the top floor visitors can catch a breathtaking view of the surrounding areas, taking in the parks and city
A store named Shinobiya provided Ninja items, Sengoku items, Japanese style accessories, and other things. Some of the staff were dressed as Ninjas, one could take a memorial photo with them.
We saw a samurai statue and took some snaps with it .

Samurai ideals have transcended throughout Japanese history and understanding the samurai heritage provides one with an interesting insight into today's modern society and the respect, discipline and honor that is prevalent throughout this unique country
In the first floor there were souvenir shops and cafes

Some beautiful stones were displayed in front of the tower

In 1970 two identical time capsules were buried next to Osaka Castle with one to remain buried for 5000 years. The other was first opened in 2000 and is scheduled to be opened every hundred years so that the contents can be examined and the latest preservation techniques can be employed.

2098 items have been included in this ‘message to the future’ project, chosen by scientists, engineers, and historians to reflect life in the 1970 s ,covering everything from electronics, to recorded performances, false teeth, a glass eye, insects encased in resin, an origami instruction book, handcuffs and even counterfeit money
Due to lack of time, we did not enter the castle and chose to have a look at the lovely park which was opened in 1931 and was an incredibly popular destination for its changing foliage in the spring’s ‘sakura’ (cherry blossom) season, as well as the autumn’s ‘koyo’ (falling leaves) season

The Nishinomaru Garden, encompassing the former "western citadel", is a lawn garden with 600 cherry trees, a tea house, the former Osaka Guest House and nice views of the castle tower from below..
The best views of Osaka Castle could be had from the park, with the structure itself towering over the stunning natural landscape which enveloped it.

It was a very popular spot and groups of local tourists were giving various poses in that much sought after picture point.

It is even possible to take a short boat ride around the surrounding moat which we avoided as we had to go to Hiroshima

LE GAYI DIL GUDIYA JAPAN KI ! JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 11
My fascination for Japan started in childhood when my parents bought two paintings of Japanese ladies in Moore market of Madras. I used to look for hours at their kimonos and painted faces, fans and umbrellas and dream that I would one day visit Japan and see beautiful Japanese ladies

My dream materialized and here I was in Gion, famous for its active community of geishas and geisha training houses.
The term "geisha" is made of two Japanese words, (gei) "art" and (sha) "person who does"
I asked our tour guide whether geisha still existed and she said yes they still exist. There are around 300 of them and most of them are in Kyoto
Geiko (or ‘fully fledged’ geisha, and maiko their apprentices) are often spotted in Gion dressed elegantly in their beautiful kimonos and obi which fastens the kimono at the back, and with Oshiroi a skin whitening  makeup and hair styles

Geishas are entertainers who take clients for nights of dining, drinking, performing tea ceremonies and entertaining with song, poetry and classical Japanese dance
Contrary to popular belief, geisha are not Eastern equivalent of sex workers , a misconception originating in the West due to foreign interactions with oiran (courtesans) and other sex workers, whose appearance was similar to that of geisha.

Many tourists visit Gion ardently hoping to catch a glimpse of a geisha or maiko on their way to or from an engagement at an ochaya in the evenings or while running errands during the day but most of the girls are wearing the kimono for that day and there have been unfortunate instances of tourists behaving like ruthless paparazzi  in recent years.

In the early stages of Japanese History, saburuko (serving girls) were mostly wandering girls with families displaced by war. Some offered sexual services for money while others with a better education made a living by entertaining at high-class social gatherings.
After the imperial court moved the capital to Kyoto in 794, conditions that would form geisha culture began to emerge, as it became the home of a beauty obsessed elite and skilled female performers and dancers thrived.
Traditional Japan embraced sexual delights and men were not constrained to be faithful to their wives. The ideal wife was a modest mother and manager of the home and love between the couple had secondary importance. For sexual enjoyment and romantic attachment, men did not go to their wives, but to courtesans.
In 1617, the shogynate designated "pleasure quarters", outside of which prostitution was illegal to practice, where yūjo ("play women")  would be classified and licensed.
The highest rank of yūjo was the geisha's predecessor, the tayū. Tayū were a combination of prostitutes and actresses who originally performed in Kyoto.
Pleasure quarters quickly became glamorous entertainment centers that offered additional services other than sex. The highly accomplished courtesans of these districts entertained their clients by dancing, singing, and playing music.

Some were renowned poets and calligraphers as well. Gradually, they all became specialized and a new profession dedicated to entertainment emerged at the turn of the eighteenth century
Surprisingly the first geisha were men who entertained customers waiting to see the most popular and gifted courtesans.
By 1800, the profession of geisha was entirely female who began to successfully establish themselves as artists, entertainers and more intelligent lady companion than their cloistered cousins in the red light districts of Japan.
By 1830s, geisha were considered to be the fashion and style icons in Japanese society, and were emulated by women of the time. Many fashion trends started by geisha soon became widely popular

World war II brought a drastic change to the geisha profession and geisha numbers which had been as high as 80,000 before the war fell drastically
After the war, restrictions on geisha practices were lifted with tea houses, bars and geisha houses (okiya) allowed to open again and working as a geisha was still considered to be a lucrative and viable career, with numbers increasing quickly and geisha returned to wearing kimono and practicing the traditional arts
Before the twentieth century, geisha began their training at a young age, around the age of six.
Compulsory education laws passed in the 1960 s effectively shortened the period of training for geisha apprentices, as girls could no longer be taken at a young age to be trained throughout their teenage years. Labor laws stipulate that apprentices only join an okiya aged 18

Young women who wish to become geisha now most often begin their training after high school or even college and take the personal decision to train to become a geisha . Many women begin their careers in adulthood
The two stages before an apprentice officially debuts as a maiko are known as shikomi preparation" or "training", followed by a minarai , "learning by observation" period, an apprentice will receive training through one specific tea house.

Before debuting as a maiko, apprentices may live at the okiya  as  shikomi - essentially a trainee, learning all the necessary skills to become a maiko, as well as attending to the needs of the house and learning to live with her geisha sisters
By watching other geisha and learning from the mother of the house (known as the okā-san ), apprentices learn how to speak with guests, the mannerisms necessary to be a geisha and the traditions and also learn how to comfortably wear kimono
Daughters of geisha were often brought up as geisha themselves,  usually as the successor or daughter-role to the okiya.

A maiko is an apprentice and is therefore bonded under a contract to her okiya who usually supplies her with food, board, kimono, obi, and etc, but a maiko may decide to fund everything herself from the beginning with either a loan or the help of an outside guarantor.
 A maiko's training is very expensive and debts must be repaid over time with her earnings and only when her debts are settled can a geisha claim her entire wages and work independently
After this point she may chose to stay on living at her okiya but must still be affiliated to one to work, and even living away from the okiya, will usually commute there to begin her working evening.
Charge for a geisha's time used to be calculated by the time taken to burn one incense stick and is now a flat fee charged per hour. However, appointments and arrangements are made by the mother of the house through the official registry  .
The maiko and geisha decorate themselves with hair combs and hairpins (kanzashi), with geisha wearing far fewer kanzashi  than maiko.

Typical combs and hairpins may be made of tortoiseshell or mock-tortoiseshell, gold, silver and semi-precious stones such as jade and coral.

The tourists have to book for an experience of being entertained by a maiko or geiko while dining at an ochaya. As expert hostesses, maiko and geiko ensure everyone's enjoyment by engaging in light conversation, serving drinks, leading games and performing traditional music and dance.Some of these shows are even heavily pre booked

As our tour in Gion was during the afternoon we could see only one or two geishas obviously returning from shopping and they looked exquisite and beautiful

OLD IS GOLD IN GION -JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 10

Our final agenda that day was a visit to Gion ,Kyoto’s 's most famous geisha district. It was known for its shops, restaurants and Ochaya (tea houses), where geiko or (geisha) and maiko (geiko apprentices) entertain.

Whenever I travel abroad, my endeavour has always been to see the older and original part of the countries as much as possible, so I was waiting eagerly to see Gion which represents older Japan
Kyoto was once the capital of Japan & still is its cultural capital with the old world charm intact and Gion represents the most popular area in Kyoto

After we entered the Gion district, our driver parked the van in the parking and our guide gave us one hour to explore that area
We walked down the Hanami-koji Street extending from Shijo Avenue to Kenninji Temple.

We found that the street and its side alleys were lined with preserved machiya houses, many of which now functioned as restaurants, serving Kyoto style “kaiseki ryori” a Japanese haute cuisine and other types of local and international meals.

The lane contained some of the most beautiful traditional architecture in the district with a flagstone path ,we found that the Machiya were given names by their inhabitants  a popular custom in Asia
Centuries ago, this area to east of the Kamo River was nothing but a rest stop for the pilgrims on their way to Gion Shrine the Yasaka Shrine and now has become a major tourist attraction
Gion’s attraction lies in its high concentration of traditional wooden machiya merchant houses with the front of the home usually sectioned off for use as a shop front.

We could see that houses were often long, narrow and built up to three stories high, possibly to evade the land taxes of the olden day which taxed the width of a building and not the length.

These days, many machiya have been converted into art galleries, antique shops, art sellers, kimono stores and other shops selling traditional crafts like wooden shoes, colorful  kimonos and Japanese fans

 Like the old urban cities in Europe and Asia that served as commercial and industrial centers, Kyoto also was populated with merchants and tradesmen who wanted street-facing storefronts, and this resulted in plots shaped like thin strips and got called mockingly  “eel’s beds.”

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The outer part was modern shops, tea houses and restaurants but most of them had their shutters down and were very private ,I felt it would have been good to see it in the evening with lights on but alas when on a package tour we have to stick to the itinerary

The street was full of tourists like us ,some dressed in kimonos and busy clicking selfies , some were looking out eagerly for geishas but we were told that geishas start appearing only in the evening time

The streets had interesting flag stones laid on the ground indicating the address

There were sign boards prohibiting people from taking snaps and videos ,but our guide said we can take some, provided we don't intrude into anyone's privacy

There were small cone shaped piles of salt on a doorstep ,it was an old way of attracting customers to a shop when horse riders needed to give their horse a salt lick.

 Lanterns swaying beside entrances had symbols on them, specific to the part of Kyoto

We found fascinating straw charms hanging over doorways, and warrior figurines positioned above doorways to protect the household.
We were told that these were Chimaki which is steamed sweets wrapped rice dumpling in a bamboo leaf, or bamboo-sheath and is wound into a conical or triangular shape.

There was a tradition of eating Chimaki and Kashiwa-mochi a rice cake that contains sweet bean paste and wrapped in an oak leaf during the Boy’s festival which is believed to purge noxious vapors and protect from deadly diseases

 Chimaki is also an amulet used for greater purification .We saw qaint amulets made of straw hung at the entrance of homes and shops some looked like a door curtain in the centre a wooden tablet with inscriptions written in Japanese language

People in Kyoto hang it at the entrance of their house to ward off evil throughout the year. It is replaced with a new one every year during the Gion festival, because it doesn’t hold any spiritual meaning after one year.
Yamahoko are decorated floats with ornaments and are paraded during the Gion festival. These floats are decorated at places called kaisho, near each yamahoko neighborhood association and are often called “mobile art museums”as they are so beautifully decorated
Chimaki is sold at the Yasaka Shrine and each kaisho during the Gion festival July 1- July 31 of every year.
There is a folk lore behind a Chimaki , once upon a time, Susanoo no mikoto, the main deity of Yasaka Shrine, disguised himself as a wanderer and asked for a night’s lodging everywhere but was refused ,finally he came to the house of Somin-shorai who was a poor man, but he treated Susanoo with warm hospitality. Susanoo no mikoto was very grateful to him and told him that putting a ring of kaya grass at his waist, would protect his descendants forever.
Chinowa is a ring of kaya grass. Chinowa later became chimaki and it’s shape took the form of the typical amulet hung at the entrance of people’s houses today.

Each chimaki has its own individuality as does each yamahoko float. There are various types of chimaki, some decorated with cherry blossoms and Japanese plum blossoms, some that come with a free gift, such as a charm and some with a vow on a horse tablet.
The benefits of chimaki differ from each kaisho. Chimaki from Hosho-yama kaisho is especially famous for the benefit of love.
The front areas of machiya in Kyoto had interesting design such as komayose, a horse proof wooden railing

Inuyarai, a "dog barrier" made from curved bamboo slats.

Apparently these barriers originally served the purpose of stopping beggars from sitting against the walls and keeping the houses from being soiled by dogs or splashed with mud by passing vehicles. Now, their function is largely to conceal air-conditioning units.
The windows of the machiya were covered by slatted wooden frames called koshi  fitted to get some privacy from the street outside. There were various designs of latticework according to the type of premises.

 Other windows were covered by bamboo blinds called sudare and the roofs had tiles called Kawara of different designs

Most of the dwellings like so many in Japan used the limited space in front and at back for a simple garden of plants obviously loved and cared for by the owner indicating that people in Japan are well-adapted to living in small spaces and are ingenuously resourceful with it.

I was particularly looking at the backside views of the houses ,though in front it was a shuttered shop, when seen at the back there were savvy and spacious courtyards with gardens albeit tiny with hustle and bustle of daily domestic life

Houses often contained a beautiful enclosed courtyard garden near the back. These tsubo-niwa are open to the sky, and sitting under the roof watching rain fall into the garden is a magical “only-in-Kyoto” experience. Some of these are converted to small guest houses too

In 1998, there were approximately 28,000 machiya in the downtown area of Kyoto. However in a survey conducted in April, 2004, that number had sadly fallen by 13%.
 The various reasons for tearing down the machiya were cost of upkeep, high vulnerability to fire and earth quakes.
We were lucky that we could see a new house under construction

Gion is also famous for its sweets and no trip here would be complete without trying some. Back on Hanami-koji is a popular cake shop, Patisserie Gion Sakai.

This shop is just a short walk south of Shijo on the west side of Hanami . Inside one can purchase all kinds of cakes, tarts, meringues and pastries

There are various walking tours available during Day/Night, one can also wander around the district on our own to just get lost in it's charm  Many streets were sleepy pedestrian-only alleyways and some allowed only two wheeler ,allowing one to stroll in a leisurely manner

Traveling down the streets of Gion the famous Geisha district of Kyoto, seeing the beautiful old machiya style houses and the old time charms and walking along cute little lanes with flat stone work took us back to the old tales of feudal Japan.