ON OUR WAY FROM PARO TO THIMPHU –BHUTAN JOURNEY

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From airport we sped on our way to Thimpu ,the distance of about 50 km from Paro airport to Thimpu takes around 1hour excluding the stops. We drove south following the Pa Chhu River heading to the river confluence at Chuzom.

Coming from a city where even viewing a clear blue sky is a rarity ,it was a feast to our eyes to see sky blue sky with white clouds playing’ chasing’ and ‘catch me if you can’  games , the heavier, older and more mature clouds were trying to gather their naughty young ones under their sari pallus so they do not  get blown away in the flurry of their game.

 The river Pa Chhu  or Paro Chhu is a river of western Bhutan. It is a tributary of the Wong Chhu  and flows through the Paro Valley, site of one of Bhutan's main towns, Paro, and many important monasteries. As we went on, it accompanied us placidly

Our guide however informed us that it could certainly become ferocious at times , we could see green mountains on both sides with houses perched precariously .

As we traveled I was quizzing our guide on the culture and various other aspects of Bhutan . Luckily for us he spoke fluent English and a spatter of Hindi too to our surprise , he told us he had studied for 2 years in Delhi University.

 In Bhutanese families, inheritance generally passes  matrilineally  through the female rather than the male line. Daughters inherit their parents' house. A man is expected to make his own way in the world and often moves to his wife's home after marriage.

Love marriages are becoming more common in urban areas, but the tradition of arranged marriages among mutually known families is still prevalent in the rural areas. Although uncommon, polygamy is accepted, maybe to keep property in the family unit rather than dispersing to others,but the husband does need permission from the first wife

 The economy of the country is based on agriculture and forestry.The main livelihood for more than 60% of the population, agriculture consists largely of farming and animal husbandry. Rugged mountains make the building of roads and other infrastructure difficult and expensive, practically there are no railroads in Bhutan

Hydro power exports to India have boosted Bhutan's overall growth,all Bhutanese love India and value the friendship existing between the two countries and everywhere we went we could see people avidly watching our Hindi Saas Bahu serials ,Sharukh Khan ,Priyanka Chopra and Juhi Chawla are loved by all
Our guide told us we had come in the right season which was May ,as Autumn is from October to November when it's generally sunny with some snow at higher elevations. Late November to early March is dry with pre-monsoon showers starting in May.
The best time to visit Bhutan is during the spring months of March to May when the valleys come alive with flowers in bloom which we found true as we found flowers welcoming us with gay abandon throughout our stay

Along the way to Chunzom, we first passed villages like Bondey, Shaba and at Isuna, the road crossed bridge to the other side of river.
 About 18 KM southeast of Paro, our car stopped to the side and our guide asked us to step down .
We were a little apprehensive about leaving our bags with our passports in the car but the guide assured us that as long as we were in their country we were safe and our silent but smiling driver affirmed his statement vehemently
We had to walk down a mud road along a steep slope to see the Tamchog Lhakhang, a private temple owned by the descendents of famous Tibetan bridge-builder Thangtong Gyalpo.

Here I do have to tell my readers that our trip to Bhutan involved a lot of walking and climbing ,one needs sturdy shoes and a walking mind set because the Bhutanese walk everywhere and are as nimble as goats when climbing. Almost all the monasteries require climbing innumerable number of steep steps and require fair amount of patience to walk miles and miles
we sat for sometime on some logs there gazing  at the splendid views around us ,we could see some chilli fields being prepared for farming

We saw the Tachogang  Lhakhang Bridge, an iron-chain hanging bridge that crosses the Paro River and leads to the small  hilltop temple.

As history goes, the original bridge was erected in the 1400 s by the infamous “madman of Bhutan,” Thangthong Gyalpo  but was destroyed in 1969 by severe floods and  was rebuilt in 2005 using strands of chains from the old bridge.
 Thangtong Gyalpo(1385-1464) is very significant in Bhutan,he was a saint, blacksmith, architect, physician and an engineer. He built numerous iron suspension bridges and temples across Bhutan and Tibet which are still under use ,it is said that he used to nail the bridges with his bare hands. He was also the founder of Tibetan opera called ‘Ache Lhamo’. He traveled to Bhutan in 1433 from Tibet.

The legend of Thangtong Gyalpo says that the money needed to build his iron bridges was raised from his opera performances, such was his passion!
 The bridge was festooned with multi-colored Buddhist prayer flags and was supposed to move and sway dangerously when walked upon. Alas now no one was permitted to use it and was barred much to my utter disappointment , I got reminded of “ the road not taken “poem by Robert Frost ! The bridge was also shown in the movie Little Buddha by Bernardo Bertolucci
The ends of the bridge had white stucco structures that may have served as mini-forts to protect the bridge from invaders.

There was another bridge next to this iron bridge which was now being used by all. As we stepped on it, though it was not swaying dangerously, it was quite thrilling to watch the rapid flow of river waters under the bridge

Tachogang Lhakhang temple was built by Tangtong Gyelpo in the fifteenth century. While the Tibetan master was meditating here, he had a vision of a spiritual horse emanation of Avalokiteshvara and decided to build a temple as well as an iron suspension bridge at this location .Tachogang means ‘temple of the hill of the excellent horse’. The temple is privately run by the descendents of Thangtong Gyalpo now.
After we went across the bridge we entered the temple and climbed onto the top floor through a creaky wooden staircase ,there we could see statues of Lord Buddha, Guru  Padmasambhava and the walking stick of Tangtong Gyelpo  preserved .

We had a great view of the bridge, the rushing river, and the rows of prayer flags fluttering furiously in the wind.

Prayer flags are  dominantly seen across every river, bridge, mountain road or open space in Bhutan. Fresh colorful strings represent all five elements the air, wind, water, fire,wood  for luck and for prayers
 People hang the prayers where there are strong winds, an image of the wind horse in the center representing the power of the wind to carry the prayers fast and wide. They consult astrologers for the best place, and hang tall flags in front of their houses representing  their own element, or a local protector

Everywhere near Monasteries and temples in Bhutan we find prayer wheels which have to be rotated clockwise and these have a lot of religious significance in Budhism  

I found many tiny stupa shaped clay vessels called tsatsas  near the temple and all around it ,tucked under the rocks and everywhere ,I happened to see them all over Bhutan near monasteries and temples. They contain the ashes of loved ones and are placed by their relatives at holy places to liberate their souls

Chhuzom (Confluence) is the juncture of Thimphu river (Wang Chu) and Paro river . Chuzom is also a major road junction, with southwest road leading to Haa (79km), south road to Phuntsholing (141km) and northeast to Thimphu (30km).
There we stopped for a while ,I liked the board displayed there

.Everywhere in Bhutan we could see many dogs which apparently are revered as God’s messengers and they appeared tame
I  also found many improvised dustbins which cost mere pittance

From Chuzom, the road followed Wangchu River upstream as we passed through villages and suburbs to the capital, Thimphu. There were extensive rice paddies, apple orchards and several old houses.

BETWEEN PEAKS AND PRAYERS: FLIGHT TO PARO - BHUTAN JOURNEY

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We reached Kolkata one day before and had a restful sleep. We went to the airport early, checked in, and asked for window-side seats on the left side, as that would be the best place to view the mighty Himalayas. As seats are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis, it is advisable to go early and book these precious seats.

While checking in, I noticed that we were the only senior people; all the others were either big family groups or newly married couples, with the girls with mehendi still fresh on their hands and feet, dozens of glass bangles on their hands, and their husbands protectively guarding their new wives with hands around their shoulders! 

After checking in our luggage, we went exploring around the airport, which had quaint shops and window displays.

We sauntered to our gate and waited for the boarding call . We could see the Bhutan Airlines flight getting loaded up with luggage and food

Once called in, we entered the flight; though it was a small one, we found that the seats were comfortable , with enough leg space and push-back facility.

There were in-flight magazines with lot of information about the country.

In no time, refreshments were served: fresh and wholesome sandwiches, fruit bread, peanuts, and orange juice were given.

Time passed very quickly ,I was excited and was waiting for the Himalayas to appear, lo behold! There was an announcement from our pilot that we could start seeing the Himalayan mountain ranges on the left side, I nudged my husband ,who was happily dozing, to stay awake and have a look at them.

As the seat belt sign was off, a lot of kids tried to crowd onto the left side only to be gently hushed away by the air hostess.

It was surely a thrilling experience to see the 18,000-foot peaks of the serene Himalayas playing hide and seek with the white fluffy clouds; my husband always appreciates my vivid imagination and child like enthusiasm to appreciate even the most mundane things .

A few minutes later, our pilot announced that the mighty Mount Everest would now be seen on our left side. Yes, there it was ! Majestic and mysterious,I thanked God for giving me this opportunity to at least see it from afar, as I knew I could never climb it.

Paro Airport is the sole international airport of the four airports in the Kingdom of Bhutan. It is 6 km from Paro, in a deep valley on the bank of the Paro Chhu river. With surrounding peaks as high as 18,000 ft, it is considered one of the world's most challenging airports, and only a select number of pilots are certified to land at the airport and to my utter delight, I came to know one was a woman pilot.

In 1968, the Indian Border Roads Organisation built an airstrip in the Paro valley, which was initially used for on-call helicopter operations by the Indian Armed Forces on behalf of the Royal Government of Bhutan. Bhutan's first airline, Drukair, was established by Royal Charter on 5th April 1981.

At 6,500 feet long, the runway at Paro is actually shorter than its elevation. Besides the danger of flying through some of the world’s tallest peaks, the runway is carved out of the mountain foliage, and pilots must also account for vicious winds that sweep through the valley.

Landing and taking off are from both directions of the airport's only runway.

The airport is served by several airlines such as Druk Air and Bhutan Airlines. Druk Air has flights operating to several domestic and international locations such as Bagdogra, Delhi, Guwahati, Gaya, Kolkata, Mumbai, Dhaka, Bangkok, Gelephu, Jakarta, Kathmandu, and Singapore. Bhutan Airlines has carriers to Delhi, Kolkata, Kathmandu, and Bangkok. 

The last part of the flight before landing at Paro took us through deep green valleys, through which aircraft took a couple of turns with hills on both sides. Throughout this part of the flight, I held my breath, only releasing it when we landed safely, as I was tense, anticipating that the plane would crash into the hills or trees; sometimes I could see right into the houses nearby.

Visual flight rules call for the pilots to use their own judgement to manoeuvre the aircraft while landing and taking off . Since the decision is taken based on their knowledge of the terrain and landmarks in the valley, coupled with the quality of visibility, they need absolute clarity in the weather for a safe flight. 

While landing, the pilots hand-fly the plane with their local knowledge, navigating it mindful of the electric poles, roofs of the homes, trees, hill-sides etc. It is almost like the aircraft is being flown in the alleys.

Paro Airport is very interesting, with just 6-8 flights arriving at the airport daily; each flight is received with much care, the entire airport staff being activated to serve the plane in every aspect from immigration customs and security to baggage handlers.

As we landed and got down, I found that all of us were crazily clicking snaps of the flight, scenery around us, and the hundreds of custom Bhutanese buildings with largely wooden-based architecture. Bhutanese ramp workers greeted us and obligingly took a snap of us both.

Paro Airport is an exquisite place for architecture and is a place to be treasured.

Externally and internally, the airport was Bhutanese in its design and feel, and was a beautiful place full of beautiful things.

Going through immigration was a pleasure and not the usual painful challenge normally experienced by us. The processing at the immigration counter was quite straightforward, we needed just our passports as our visas were already verified at the Kolkata airport where we boarded Bhutan Airlines flight. The immigration officers spoke excellent English and were quite polite.

There were two terminals! The original 1999 terminal was joined by the newer, slightly larger terminal that opened on Mar 18, 2016, is for arrivals only.

We could see beautiful cherry blossom trees and the animated flags flapping around in the wind. We could see, to the north of the terminals and ramp areas, a maintenance area with a large shared hanger for both Bhutan Airlines and Druk Air.

After clearing customs, we found the money exchange counter located on the right, with the exchange rates listed on the board.

We came out of the airport, where we could find a lot of people waiting in traditional dresses; our guide, with our names written on a placard, was waiting for us.

VISITING THE ONLY COUNTRY WITH NO TRAFFIC LIGHTS - BHUTAN JOURNEY

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Our trip to Bhutan was long due, we were just planning to go when the weather would be good and we could get to see the beautiful country. Our travel agent was sceptical about whether we could cover the country in five days, but we were insistent that we could cover only the important places due to our tight schedules in our careers.

Bhutan is a Buddhist kingdom in South Asia also popularly known as 'Land of Thunder Dragon on Himalayas’ eastern edge, known for its monasteries, fortresses (known as dzongs) and dramatic landscapes ranging dramatically from subtropical plains to steep mountains and valleys.
It is a landlocked country bordered by the People's Republic of China to the north, and by India to the south, east, and west.

The land consists mostly of high and steep mountains crisscrossed by a network of swift rivers. The country has the world’s highest unclimbed peak, Gangkhar Puensum, at 24,836 feet.
At 7,326 m, Jomolhari is a popular trekking destination. Paro Taktsang monastery (also known as Tiger’s Nest) clings to cliffs above the thickly forested Paro Valley and was a place which was a must see and climb on our bucket list!
Bhutan is known for its natural beauty, forest conservation, great culture & heritage and biodiversity. It covers 72% forest area of the country  is one of the large biodiversity places in the world. Half of the country is a national park. The forest, animals, and environment are strictly protected.
The general prosperity of the country is measured by the ‘Gross National Happiness’ index, explained by its four pillars – sustainable development, good governance, cultural preservation and environmental protection. It has been continually ranked as the happiest country in Asia and one of the top happiest countries in the world.

In Bhutan, globalisation has happened over the last ten years, but in a way that allows citizens to balance material possessions and spirituality.
Bhutan’s GDP (gross domestic product) has been growing steadily over the last several years. As India invests heavily in hydropower in their country, Bhutan is quickly becoming rich. According to national surveys, around 2/3 of all Bhutanese people get at least eight hours of sleep per night.
It surprisingly has no traffic lights, and the traffic is regulated by free flowing traffic circles.

There are no newspapers printed on a Sunday, nor do the people want to read them on sundays.
Tourists from other countries except India, Bangladesh and the Maldives have to visit through a registered tour guide, and it costs around $250 per day, which includes everything. This is to help protect Bhutan's culture and environment.
Bhutan's unit of currency is Ngultrum (BTN) and has the same value as the Indian rupee. INR 100 & 50 Rupee denominations may be used in Bhutan, but Ngultrum cannot be used in India. Notes of INR 500, INR 1000 and INR 2000 are not accepted in Bhutan.

Famous food in Bhutan:  Ema Datshi (Chillies and cheese), Red Rice, Jasha Maroo or Maru (Spicy chicken), Phaksha Paa (pork with red chillies), Suja (Bhutanese butter tea), Ara (traditional alcoholic beverage), Zow Shungo, and Jaju Soup.
Bhutanese cuisine is known for its spiciness. Rice and chillies are the main ingredients of most meals, accompanied by side dishes consisting of vegetables or pork, beef, and chicken. Ema Datshi is the national dish of Bhutan. Rich in cultural diversity, every village in Bhutan has a unique festival, Tshechu is the most important and widely celebrated of all festivals.

October to December is the ideal time to visit Bhutan, as the air is clear and fresh with sunny skies. January and February are colder, but from then until April the climate remains dry and pleasant, and in late spring the famous rhododendrons bloom spectacularly, flooding the valleys with vivid colours.
Bhutanese have a strong reverence to nature and the country leads in environmental conservation.

People use cotton bags instead of plastic bags to keep the environment free of non-biodegradable items. The Tobacco Control Act regulates tobacco, banning the cultivation, harvesting, production, and sale of it in Bhutan.
A traditional Bhutanese male generally wears a Gho a knee-length kimono-style robe tied by a belt called ‘kera’ at the waist.

Women prefer to wear ankle-length dresses called ‘Kira’ with an outer jacket called ‘Tego’. People wear scarves while making a visit to any administrative centre. The scarves worn by men are called ‘Kabney’ while those worn by women are called ‘Rachus’. The colour of the scarf determines one’s social status.

Dzongkha is the official language of Bhutan; several other languages, such as Nepali and Lepcha, are also spoken in the region, but the medium of instruction in most schools is English, with textbooks being published both in English and Dzongkha. English is also well understood by a majority of the population.
Now that our tour was booked for 5 days, we started packing. As May would be quite cold and we would be travelling through hilly areas ,we packed some woollen wear. We would fly to Calcutta ,halt there for the night and take the Bhutan Airlines from Calcutta airport at 8.15 am.

OUR NEW ZEALAND JOURNEY -THE FINAL WRAP UP

Blog post 40
It was way back in April 2011 when we had planned for a combined trip to Australia and New Zealand but could make it only to Australia, due to delay in visa issue,  our trip to New Zealand was in the pipe line since then
 It finally materialized in 2017 when we chose the Grand Pacific 19 Day Rail & Coach Tour.
Blessed with breathtaking natural beauty, world-famous vineyards and a rich Maori heritage, it’s no wonder that New Zealand is at the top of every traveller’s bucket list
The itinerary was given by our travel agent ,we would be travelling directly from Hyderabad to Auckland and back to Hyderabad which was indeed a blessing and avoided hassles with the luggage
As New Zealand is known for having four seasons in one day and temperature in the North and South Islands can vary greatly, it can get very cold.
So we took casual clothes that we could layer and good shoes as there would be a lot of walking, hiking, and outdoor activity opportunities. .At the end of the tour in fact I could hear to my amusement some of my lady co passengers say that they were getting tired of the daily walking
The rain is frequent especially close to South Island glaciers and Fiordland National Park but we found to our chagrin that our umbrellas were ineffective when it rained heavily ,so it is better that one takes a water proof jacket Dress is informal on most occasions, and smart casual is accepted at most restaurants, lodges, and bars

Sunscreen lotion, dark glasses and a hat are a necessity. New Zealand’s sun is harsh and as there is very less air pollution, it will burn us stingingly even on days that are not sunny.
New Zealand has incredibly strict bio security laws to ensure invasive species are not introduced that could have drastic impacts on the country’s agricultural and natural environments.
One must declare any food, plants or animal products on arrival at customs, as well as any camping gear, muddy boots,
If we are not sure, it’s best to declare it, as heavy fines can be imposed for failing to do so which would be a very bad start to our trip. We have to make sure to clean shoes, boots, and gear before we travel to New Zealand.

It is not customary and not required to tip while visiting New Zealand, however, for exceptional service a tip is always appreciated.  The amount is discretionary and 10% is usually the typical amount. On national holidays it is customary for restaurants and cafes to charge an additional service fee of around 10-15%.
If one believes in saving the best for the last, better we begin our journey in North Island and move towards the South Island as we did. While North Island is undoubtedly gorgeous, South Island’s landscapes are definitely more dramatic, with lofty mountains and mystical fjords.

In large centres we can expect all retail businesses, including banks, to be open 7 days a week. Typical opening hours are 9 am–5 pm during weekdays and 10 am–4 pm on weekends but this varies. Supermarkets are typically open from 7 am–10 pm.
 New Zealand has a wide network of hiking trails and back country huts, and choices vary from day hikes to multi-day Great Walks. So put on your hiking shoes; this is the best way to see the country though we timidly stuck to our bus
New Zealand can be expensive. After all, everything does need to be shipped to the end of the world so it’s understandable.

There may be no tipping culture but there certainly is a coffee culture. You’ll find coffee at just about every turn, including petrol stations. Part of the true Kiwi experience is ordering a “flat white”.
New Zealand has a no-smoking policy in eateries (though you may find a smoking area outside) and many public areas are also becoming smoke-free. If you’re a smoker, look out for signs telling you where you can and can’t smoke.
It’s customary in New Zealand to either pay at the time of ordering or to go up to the counter after your meal and pay for it. If you wait for your bill to be brought to you, you’ll be waiting a long time.
 Your bill will be rounded up or down to the nearest 10c when paying by cash. Debit cards (called Eftpos cards) are accepted just about everywhere and most shops also accept credit cards.
One of the great things about New Zealand is that there aren’t any dangerous snakes (or any snakes at all) or spiders a fact which was re emphasized by our guides many times
In New Zealand one can find a wide range of accommodations, from backpacker lodges to five-star hotels, but we can expect to pay between S$150 and $230 (160–240 NZD) for a double room at a mid-range hotel.
A main course at a mid-range restaurant will usually range from S$18 to $30 (20–32 NZD).
In fact in every place we visited we could find Indian restaurants that too south Indian ones blaring telugu music to our extreme delight and we could get our famous chicken Biryani .

 Sandflies were found everywhere and when I was trying to recollect the list of diseases caused by them, my husband hushed me down saying that he didn’t want to go on a medical journey on this trip.
Shopping is so expensive that we just spent our time doing window shopping ,sometimes my husband had to literally drag me away from the tastefully done window displays and I happily captured all my fancies on my camera

 According to folklore, early flowing pōhutukawa are a sign of a long, hot summer and the first signs of red appearing on the trees and presence of even a single flower  made our guides exclaim that an early summer was expected

Summer is peak season for more than apples and kiwifruit in New Zealand. It’s also time for Meyer lemons, feijoa, kiwano melons and passion fruit, among other specialty items

 NZ tap water is universally safe to drink. Standards exist to ensure that major contaminating organisms such as Protozoa and Cryptosporidium are removed or reduced to safe levels.

The roads are very motorable with stringent rules of the road and the long distances travelled on the bus didn’t even make a dent in our ageing bones
As we had taken adequate supply of required medicines we had no health issues and most important was the immense warmth and hospitality shown by all kiwis which makes us look back on our New Zealand with fond memories