GLITTERING GOLD PAVILION KINKAUJI –JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 8

After the Imperial palace visit we visited the Temple of the Golden Pavilion or Kinkaku-ji a Zen Buddhist temple. It is one of the most popular buildings in Kyoto and attracts many visitors annually.

It is designated as a National Special Historic Site and Special Landscape and is one of 17 Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto which are World Heritage Sites 

We entered the premises through Somon, the main gate. There was a beautiful path laid down by maple and pine trees gayly swaying in the wind and welcoming us ,lot of Japanese girls were gracefully walking maybe on holiday

The site of Kinkaku-ji was originally a villa belonging to a powerful statesman, Saionji  Kintsune. In 1397 the villa was purchased from the Saionji family by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and transformed into the Kinkaku-ji complex. When Yoshimitsu died, the building was converted  by his son into a Zen temple as per his wishes.

 Kinkakuji was the inspiration for the Ginkakuji  the Silver Pavilion built by Yoshimitsu's grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a few decades later.

In 14th century unfortunately all buildings in the complex apart from the pavilion were burned down and were rebuilt again

On 2nd July 1950, the pavilion was burned down by a 22-year-old novice monk, Hayashi Yoken, who then attempted suicide on the Daimon-ji hill behind the building. He survived, and was subsequently taken into custody. The monk was sentenced to seven years in prison, but was released because of his history of mental illness of persecution complex and schizophrenia but he died of tuberculosis in March 1956.

 During the fire, the original statue of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu was lost to the flames but however is now restored. A fictionalized version of these events has become the base of Yukio Mishima ‘s famous book “ Temple of the Golden Pavilion “

The present pavilion structure was rebuilt in 1955.We started walking towards it and found that it was of three stories and 40 feet in height.

  In 1984 the coating of Japanese lacquer was found to be a little decayed and a new coating, as well as gilding with gold-leaf, much thicker than the original coatings was completed in 1987. 

The top two stories of the pavilion are covered with pure gold leaf. The pavilion houses Buddha's Ashes. 

 The gold employed as per Japanese philosophy was intended to mitigate and purify negative thoughts and feelings towards death. As we looked in awe as the is sun light fell on the pavilion ,it glinted and there was a golden reflection created on the pond.

The pavilion successfully incorporates three distinct styles of architecture, which are Shinden, Samurai and Zen, specifically on each floor. Each floor of the Kinkaku uses a different architectural style. The first floor called “The Chamber of Dharma Waters” is evocative of the Shinden palace style. It is designed as an open space with adjacent verandas and uses natural, unpainted wood and white plaster.

 Most of the walls are made of shutters that can vary the amount of light and air into the pavilion and change the view by controlling the shutters' heights. 

The second floor, called  “The Tower of Sound Waves” is built in the style of warrior aristocrat. On this floor, sliding wooden doors and latticed windows create a feeling of impermanence. The second floor also contains a Buddha Hall and a shrine dedicated to the goddess of mercy.

 The third floor is built in traditional Chinese Chan style, It is called “the Cupola of the Ultimate” .

The roof is a thatched pyramid with shingles and is topped by a bronze phoenix statue 

Statues of Buddha and Yoshimitsu are stored in the first floor. Although it is not possible to enter the pavilion, the statues can be viewed from across the pond if seen closely, as the front windows of the first floor are usually kept open

 The elements of nature, death, religion, are fused together to create this connection between the pavilion and outside intrusions.

As we started walking towards the Golden Pavilion we found that it was set in a Japanese strolling garden landscaped in the go-round style. The pavilion extended over a pond, called Kyōko-chi  or mirror pond that reflected the building proudly

 The pond contained 10 smaller islands. The Zen typology could be seen through the rock composition, the bridges and plants were arranged in a particular way to represent famous places in Japanese literature. 

After viewing Kinkakuji from across the pond, we passed by the head priest's former living quarters (hojo) known for their painted sliding doors (fusuma), but not open to the public.

 Our path once again passed by Kinkakuji from behind giving us all plenty of photo shoot opportunities and then lead through the temple's gardens which have retained their original design from Yoshimitsu's days.

The quaint Anmintaku Pond here is said to always have water and has many small statues and islands considered lucky. 

We found tourists fervently throwing small centrally punched 5-Yen coins for luck 

The small stone pagoda at the center of the pond is known as the Hakuja-No-Tsuka for a mound dedicated to the white snake’s memory. 

We found a cluster of stone statues of Buddha and his disciples in the garden and saw the locals throw coins at them for blessings and there was an ancient 600 year old bonsai pine tree 

It was indeed very crowded and people were jostling for good snaps and the ever present school children could be seen , after following the path and weaving through the garden full of many maple and cypress trees, we then came across the Sekka-tei, an old tea house that was rebuilt in 1874, designed by Kanamori Sowa in the 17th century. 

The roof was already covered with light green moss and lichens that provided a nice complement to the green maple leaves. It had the ancient toro or stone lantern, a Muromachi Palace seat and a basin all reminders of lavish Kitayama culture of the court’s wealthy aristocrats in Yoshimitsu's times. 

We came to the Fudo Hall, a small temple hall which housed a statue of Fudo Myoo, one of the Five Wisdom Kings and protector of Buddhism. The statue is said to be carved by Kobo Daishi, one of the most important figures in Japanese religious history. We saw people ring the temple bells, light incense and ask for blessings.

A tea shop was grinding its own matcha a green tea that has been ground into a fine powder and is used in traditional Japanese tea ceremonies.

 She prepared a couple of sample cups. The result was a creamy green drink though it was made only with ground tea and water. It was good to taste

 A nearby snack shack sold ice cream cones sprinkled with gold flake.

There were plenty of stalls giving free samples of cookies, mochi balls, and tea and plenty of souvenirs to buy 

Some tourists had Goshuin Temple Stamp Book to collect stamps from all the different temples at the Japanese UNESCO World Heritage sites. 

 

 The exit of the temple complex was a steep walk alongside trees and a golden wall which seemed very befitting to the Golden Pavilion Temple