BANFF BEYOND THE PEAKS -CANADA JOURNEY

Finally, we reached Banff, a world-famous resort town in Alberta, Canada. Situated within the spellbinding Canadian Rockies, it is Canada's highest municipality at an elevation of 4,537 feet above sea level. 

After checking into our rooms, we decided to stroll on the streets of Banff before calling it a day.

One of the most fascinating aspects of this gorgeous town is its strict preservation laws. One cannot simply buy a house and move to Banff town. To prevent development from overtaking delicate wildlife habitats, federal law completely froze Banff's commercial and physical footprints.

To qualify for home ownership or residency, individuals must prove a strict 'need to reside' by working or running a business locally. Because of this protective barrier, the permanent population sits at a cozy 8,000 residents—who astonishingly and efficiently play host to over 4 million tourists every single year.

We came across a quaint brewhouse labeled Husband Daycare, and of course my hubby loved it.

Banff was originally put on the map in the 1880s by the creation of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR). The president of the railway named the town after his birthplace: Banffshire, Scotland. In 1883, railway workers accidentally discovered local geothermal hot springs, a historic breakthrough that directly led to the establishment of Canada's very first national park.

While exploring, we came across the Federal Heritage Railway Station of Banff. Built in 1910 by the CPR to serve elite Edwardian tourists, it has been cleverly repurposed today as a central hub for free public parking, keeping tourist cars out of the crowded downtown core. While passenger rail choices are now highly specific—such as the daylight-only luxury train operated by the famous Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver—the tracks themselves remain incredibly busy with heavy industrial freight trains operated by Canadian Pacific Kansas City (CPKC).

Unfortunately, these busy industrial tracks present a major local environmental hazard. Grains constantly spill from the heavy cargo cars, creating an accidental giant buffet that attracts local grizzly bears and elk, sadly leading to frequent train strikes. Speaking of wildlife, large elk herds are known to wander freely directly down residential streets and through public parks. 

While we didn't spot any elk during our stroll, we did find the local ice cream shop! Eating a freezing cold ice cream cone on a genuinely chilly September day provided an absolute thrill.

No matter where we walked in the town, our view was framed by the massive, iconic 2,998-meter peak of Cascade Mountain. Named in 1858 by James Hector after the cascading waterfalls lining its southern flanks, the mountain is also remembered in local Indigenous culture and history as Stoney Chief. The trail to the summit is a punishingly long, steep, and challenging day hike. Towering right alongside it over the townscape is the equally magnificent Mount Rundle.

The next morning, we boarded a hotel shuttle bus for a 15-kilometer ride outside of town to Banff Sunshine Village. 

This world-renowned alpine resort is uniquely situated directly on the Continental Divide of the Canadian Rockies, split across Banff National Park in Alberta and Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park in British Columbia.

Because of this high-altitude geographic sweet spot, it catches massive weather patterns and receives significantly more snowfall than neighbouring resorts, averaging over 9 meters of snow per year. This allows it to boast one of North America's longest non-glacial ski seasons, running from early November to late May.

The area encompasses over 3,300 acres of skiable terrain spread across three major mountain peaks, each showcasing distinct vantage points.

Mount Standish: Features wide beginner slopes and the Standish Viewing Deck, which overlooks three high-alpine lakes (Rock Isle, Grizzly, and Laryx).

Lookout Mountain: Known for wide-open bowls, sweeping high alpine terrain, and spectacular views across jagged ridgelines.

Goat's Eye Mountain: Offers steep, highly challenging expert terrain with rugged, sustained fall-line views of the surrounding wilderness.

Historically, the area served as a popular high-alpine camping site in the 1920s and was affectionately nicknamed 'Tee Pee Town'. Commercial downhill ski resort operations were developed in the 1930s by the Brewster family, though the oldest building remaining on site is the Old Sunshine Lodge, constructed back in 1928 by the Canadian Pacific Railway.

Today, the upper village and ski runs are entirely car-free. The shuttle dropped us off at the gondola base, where we boarded a massive, high-speed 8-person gondola. The ride up takes about 18 minutes to cruise to the upper village plaza.

In the summer and autumn, Sunshine Village switches from a winter wonderland to an eco-tourism paradise where hikers can explore the magnificent wildflower fields of Sunshine Meadows.

Gliding over the terrain, I felt these mountains have stories of their own, the land is deeply respected indigenously, and I observed that the flowers merrily move to their own rhythm.

Upon arriving at the lower Sunshine Village area, park rangers gave us a lovely, comforting orientation session on 'How to Avoid Being Eaten by Grizzly Bears on the Trail,' and we made sure to purchase bear spray just in case.

From there, we literally jumped onto the Standish Chairlift—a completely open-air lift that you have to leap onto while it's actively moving! I spent the entire 8-minute ride white-knuckling the metal safety bars for dear life, way too terrified to even pull my phone out of my pocket.

Stepping off the chair brought us to an elevation of over 8,000 feet, marking the highest lift-accessed sightseeing point in Banff National Park. The view was magical.

From the Standish Viewing Desk, we could clearly see three pristine turquoise lakes, Rock Isle, Grizzly, and Laryx, shimmering below us, and the rugged, glacier-carved peaks stretching all the way to Mount Assiniboine along the border of Alberta and British Columbia. 

Visiting in September was perfect; the summer crowds were gone, the crisp air made trail hiking comfortable, and we were treated to a unique blend of changing fall foliage and early snow frosting the high peaks.

That evening, our group headed to Sulphur Mountain to catch the sunset and have dinner on the roof of the Rockies. Towering directly over the south side of the town at an elevation of 7,486 feet, Sulphur Mountain is the most visited peak in Banff. It takes its name from the active thermal hot springs bubbling from its lower slopes. 

While we were whisked up to the summit complex in a swift 8-minute gondola ride that treated us to a 360-degree panorama over the Bow Valley, ambitious hikers can bypass the lift entirely by climbing a 5.5-kilometer switchback trail (taking 2 to 3 hours). In a fun twist, surviving this gruelling winter hike rewards hikers with a completely free gondola ride back down!

At the top, the air was chilly, and clouds played a beautiful game of hide-and-seek among the summits.

We walked along the 1-kilometer elevated wooden boardwalk that leads directly to Sanson’s Peak. Standing fully intact at the end of the boardwalk is the historic 1903 stone weather observatory used by meteorologist Norman Sanson, who diligently hiked up here to record data for nearly 30 years. The peak is a designated national historic site and has also hosted a specialized high-altitude laboratory to study cosmic radiation.

To cap off our mountain adventures, we dined at the famous Sky Bistro, an award-winning fine-dining venue located inside the summit complex. Perched right on the roof of the mountains, the restaurant features dramatic floor-to-ceiling glass walls that showcase panoramic views of six distinct Rocky Mountain ranges. It specialises in high-end, locally sourced Canadian cuisine, and because of its world-class views, reservations are highly competitive and must be booked months in advance. (For families or more casual dining, the adjacent Northern Lights Alpine Kitchen offers a buffet option with the exact same summit view).

Sitting beside the glass windows, looking out at the endless waves of mountains while chatting with new friends, was a truly surreal experience.

Watching the sun dip behind the rugged Canadian Rockies left us leaving Sulphur Mountain with full bellies, tired legs, and spectacular memories to last a lifetime.

A SISTER ACT, A GLACIER HUE, AND A MONROE VIEW: CASCADING THROUGH THE ROCKIES –CANADA JOURNEY

From Calgary, we left for Banff, embarking on a 128 km trip. The scenery was dramatic and picturesque; the flat, boring prairies seemed to throw a temper tantrum before finally giving up and letting the giant, mighty Rocky Mountains take over the skyline.

Before our patience ran out, we hit Canmore, a cute, small mountain town. The most prominent thing there was the view of three mountain peaks that have hijacked about a billion tourist postcards. These three, originally named Faith, Hope, and Charity, royally took over the horizon.

The peaks are so popular that they have been named twice. In 1883, Albert Rogers, a surveyor working on the Canadian Pacific Railway, dubbed them the Three Nuns after a snowfall covered the mountains’ north faces in a veil of white. Three years later, the geologist George Dawson called them the Three Sisters, and this time the name stuck.

Today, they are known individually as Big Sister, Middle Sister, and Little Sister and are easily spotted from the Bow River Valley section of the Trans-Canada Highway.

The Big Sister requires a steep, challenging scramble, while the Middle Sister is easier to climb. 

The minute the peaks are visible, we will know that we have reached the gateway to Canmore and surrounding Kananaskis Country.

However, for the most iconic photo reflection, one has to go to the Three Sisters Viewpoint near the Bow River.

We walked down the street, which was a very pedestrian-friendly stretch packed with beautiful boutique shops, colourful art galleries, and outdoor gear stores.

Canmore is known for its vibrant local dining and exceptional outdoor trails without the heavy crowds of nearby Banff.

A historic, picturesque wooden mining bridge located right next to the town centre offers easy walking paths along the river and is an excellent spot for sunset photography.

Much before Canmore was known for hiking trails and craft breweries, it was a working coal mining town. From 1883 to 1979, coal mining was the heart of the local economy and the center of daily life.

While the last mine shut down decades ago, one can still see the town’s quarrying roots in the names of trails, lakes, and streets, the bones of historic buildings, and the character of the community.

If we wander through the trails of Canmore, though we couldn’t do so due to lack of time, we may even stumble across old mine shafts, remnants of railway cart tracks, and hillsides of broken shale. 

As we walked ahead, we saw vibrant murals and sculptures that decorated the streets. These artistic expressions added a splash of color and creativity to the streets, giving us a taste of the local art scene and the inspiring landscapes surrounding Canmore.

People prefer to walk or bike to get where they’re going, to embrace active transportation, travel sustainably, and enjoy the views.

Along main routes in Canmore, I noticed that the sidewalks are often split into two lanes, grey for pedestrians and red for cyclists. It’s a subtle detail, but it helps everyone move safely and efficiently. On shared pathways, pedestrians should keep right and be aware that cyclists may pass on the left.

Life in Canmore seemed to move at a different pace. There was less urgency and more intention. The mountains invited us to slow down, tune in, and find balance between grit and grace, challenge and humility, and exploration and introspection.

We stopped at a roadside restaurant and thoroughly enjoyed a meal of fish and chips, as I usually do whenever I fall in love with a lovely place. I tentatively suggested to my husband that we could settle down there; he just gave me a big grin. L.O.L!

The mountain culture of Canmore and Kananaskis is deeply rooted in the Indigenous Peoples who have called these lands home and cared for them for generations.

Visitors can connect with these cultures and experience true mountain legacy through Indigenous–led tours and experiences. They offer a deeper understanding of the people’s enduring relationship with the land.

Locals in Canmore are used to sharing space with wildlife. Encounters with elk, deer, and smaller critters are most common in the area, but even bears and coyotes are often spotted in town. I thanked my stars that they skipped a trip to the town that day!

We then proceeded to Lake Louise, where we immediately entered parking purgatory. It was a confusing sea of massive tour buses. We spotted the Roam Transit bus from Banff, which costs $10 CAD one way. One has to buy tickets months in advance, or prepare to stand in a much more organised queue.

Lake Louise is globally renowned for its surreal, vibrant turquoise water, dramatic mountain backdrop, and iconic alpine experiences. 

The Stoney Nakoda First Nations people originally gave it the much better name Ho-run-num-nay (Lake of the Little Fishes). Later, it was renamed after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta, daughter of Queen Victoria.

The lake is huge, 2.0 km long, 0.5 km wide, and 70 metres deep, at a high alpine altitude of 5740 feet.

Its famous turquoise hue comes from "rock flour," a term for ground-up glacier dust suspended in the water, due to light refraction. It also remains completely frozen for most of the year, finally thawing around June when the tourists arrive.

Right on the shore sits the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. In 1890, this was a simple one-story log cabin. Today, it is a massive 5-star premier resort with seven restaurants, fancy afternoon tea, and a steep price tag that very few of us can afford.

Apart from this, there are several highly rated chalets tucked into the surrounding wilderness of Banff National Park. 

The shore was so crowded that we were taking group photos with complete strangers, and some young couples could be seen risking their lives, standing precariously on the wobbly stones on the shore for a romantic selfie snap. 

We saw people lining up to hire canoes to sail on the lake but didn’t dare do so due to our time constraints.

If one wants to escape the crowds, they can hike up to the Lake Agnes Teahouse or take the Fairview Lookout Trail. Fairview is only 1 km long with a 150-meter elevation gain, making it the fastest way to look down on the people who couldn't find parking, which is very frequent.

Our next stop was at Bow Falls, an iconic, wide, low-altitude waterfall located on the Bow River in Banff National Park. The parking was easy to find, and we walked to the waterfall.

The fall drops approximately 30 feet over a broad rock shelf just before the Bow River meets the Spray River. While it is not a towering drop, it is highly celebrated for its immense volume, roaring turquoise glacial melt, and incredible accessibility. 

There is a dedicated viewing platform accessible directly by car via Bow Falls Avenue, providing a head-on view of the churning white water. One can visit the falls by the Bow Falls Trail, a highly accessible 1.2-kilometer trail running from the centre of Banff directly to the base of the falls. The path features minimal elevation change and stays right along the turquoise riverbanks, making it family- and stroller-friendly. 

While visiting the waterfall itself does not require an entry fee, we must have a valid Parks Canada Pass to enter Banff National Park. Alternatively, visitors can take the local transit shuttle or opt for the easy 20-minute walk from downtown Banff.

In the calmer waters just downstream, local operators were offering rafting and float tours. Swimming is dangerous due to powerful undercurrents, and drone usage is strictly illegal because the site lies within a national protected area. 

The dramatic, churning rapids of Bow Falls were famously featured as a central backdrop in the classic 1954 Hollywood western film "River of No Return," starring Marilyn Monroe and Robert Mitchum.