VISITING THE ONLY COUNTRY WITH NO TRAFFIC LIGHTS - BHUTAN JOURNEY

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Our trip to Bhutan was long due, we were just planning to go when the weather would be good and we could get to see the beautiful country. Our travel agent was sceptical about whether we could cover the country in five days, but we were insistent that we could cover only the important places due to our tight schedules in our careers.

Bhutan is a Buddhist kingdom in South Asia also popularly known as 'Land of Thunder Dragon on Himalayas’ eastern edge, known for its monasteries, fortresses (known as dzongs) and dramatic landscapes ranging dramatically from subtropical plains to steep mountains and valleys.
It is a landlocked country bordered by the People's Republic of China to the north, and by India to the south, east, and west.

The land consists mostly of high and steep mountains crisscrossed by a network of swift rivers. The country has the world’s highest unclimbed peak, Gangkhar Puensum, at 24,836 feet.
At 7,326 m, Jomolhari is a popular trekking destination. Paro Taktsang monastery (also known as Tiger’s Nest) clings to cliffs above the thickly forested Paro Valley and was a place which was a must see and climb on our bucket list!
Bhutan is known for its natural beauty, forest conservation, great culture & heritage and biodiversity. It covers 72% forest area of the country  is one of the large biodiversity places in the world. Half of the country is a national park. The forest, animals, and environment are strictly protected.
The general prosperity of the country is measured by the ‘Gross National Happiness’ index, explained by its four pillars – sustainable development, good governance, cultural preservation and environmental protection. It has been continually ranked as the happiest country in Asia and one of the top happiest countries in the world.

In Bhutan, globalisation has happened over the last ten years, but in a way that allows citizens to balance material possessions and spirituality.
Bhutan’s GDP (gross domestic product) has been growing steadily over the last several years. As India invests heavily in hydropower in their country, Bhutan is quickly becoming rich. According to national surveys, around 2/3 of all Bhutanese people get at least eight hours of sleep per night.
It surprisingly has no traffic lights, and the traffic is regulated by free flowing traffic circles.

There are no newspapers printed on a Sunday, nor do the people want to read them on sundays.
Tourists from other countries except India, Bangladesh and the Maldives have to visit through a registered tour guide, and it costs around $250 per day, which includes everything. This is to help protect Bhutan's culture and environment.
Bhutan's unit of currency is Ngultrum (BTN) and has the same value as the Indian rupee. INR 100 & 50 Rupee denominations may be used in Bhutan, but Ngultrum cannot be used in India. Notes of INR 500, INR 1000 and INR 2000 are not accepted in Bhutan.

Famous food in Bhutan:  Ema Datshi (Chillies and cheese), Red Rice, Jasha Maroo or Maru (Spicy chicken), Phaksha Paa (pork with red chillies), Suja (Bhutanese butter tea), Ara (traditional alcoholic beverage), Zow Shungo, and Jaju Soup.
Bhutanese cuisine is known for its spiciness. Rice and chillies are the main ingredients of most meals, accompanied by side dishes consisting of vegetables or pork, beef, and chicken. Ema Datshi is the national dish of Bhutan. Rich in cultural diversity, every village in Bhutan has a unique festival, Tshechu is the most important and widely celebrated of all festivals.

October to December is the ideal time to visit Bhutan, as the air is clear and fresh with sunny skies. January and February are colder, but from then until April the climate remains dry and pleasant, and in late spring the famous rhododendrons bloom spectacularly, flooding the valleys with vivid colours.
Bhutanese have a strong reverence to nature and the country leads in environmental conservation.

People use cotton bags instead of plastic bags to keep the environment free of non-biodegradable items. The Tobacco Control Act regulates tobacco, banning the cultivation, harvesting, production, and sale of it in Bhutan.
A traditional Bhutanese male generally wears a Gho a knee-length kimono-style robe tied by a belt called ‘kera’ at the waist.

Women prefer to wear ankle-length dresses called ‘Kira’ with an outer jacket called ‘Tego’. People wear scarves while making a visit to any administrative centre. The scarves worn by men are called ‘Kabney’ while those worn by women are called ‘Rachus’. The colour of the scarf determines one’s social status.

Dzongkha is the official language of Bhutan; several other languages, such as Nepali and Lepcha, are also spoken in the region, but the medium of instruction in most schools is English, with textbooks being published both in English and Dzongkha. English is also well understood by a majority of the population.
Now that our tour was booked for 5 days, we started packing. As May would be quite cold and we would be travelling through hilly areas ,we packed some woollen wear. We would fly to Calcutta ,halt there for the night and take the Bhutan Airlines from Calcutta airport at 8.15 am.

OUR NEW ZEALAND JOURNEY -THE FINAL WRAP UP

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It was way back in April 2011 when we had planned for a combined trip to Australia and New Zealand but could make it only to Australia, due to delay in visa issue,  our trip to New Zealand was in the pipe line since then
 It finally materialized in 2017 when we chose the Grand Pacific 19 Day Rail & Coach Tour.
Blessed with breathtaking natural beauty, world-famous vineyards and a rich Maori heritage, it’s no wonder that New Zealand is at the top of every traveller’s bucket list
The itinerary was given by our travel agent ,we would be travelling directly from Hyderabad to Auckland and back to Hyderabad which was indeed a blessing and avoided hassles with the luggage
As New Zealand is known for having four seasons in one day and temperature in the North and South Islands can vary greatly, it can get very cold.
So we took casual clothes that we could layer and good shoes as there would be a lot of walking, hiking, and outdoor activity opportunities. .At the end of the tour in fact I could hear to my amusement some of my lady co passengers say that they were getting tired of the daily walking
The rain is frequent especially close to South Island glaciers and Fiordland National Park but we found to our chagrin that our umbrellas were ineffective when it rained heavily ,so it is better that one takes a water proof jacket Dress is informal on most occasions, and smart casual is accepted at most restaurants, lodges, and bars

Sunscreen lotion, dark glasses and a hat are a necessity. New Zealand’s sun is harsh and as there is very less air pollution, it will burn us stingingly even on days that are not sunny.
New Zealand has incredibly strict bio security laws to ensure invasive species are not introduced that could have drastic impacts on the country’s agricultural and natural environments.
One must declare any food, plants or animal products on arrival at customs, as well as any camping gear, muddy boots,
If we are not sure, it’s best to declare it, as heavy fines can be imposed for failing to do so which would be a very bad start to our trip. We have to make sure to clean shoes, boots, and gear before we travel to New Zealand.

It is not customary and not required to tip while visiting New Zealand, however, for exceptional service a tip is always appreciated.  The amount is discretionary and 10% is usually the typical amount. On national holidays it is customary for restaurants and cafes to charge an additional service fee of around 10-15%.
If one believes in saving the best for the last, better we begin our journey in North Island and move towards the South Island as we did. While North Island is undoubtedly gorgeous, South Island’s landscapes are definitely more dramatic, with lofty mountains and mystical fjords.

In large centres we can expect all retail businesses, including banks, to be open 7 days a week. Typical opening hours are 9 am–5 pm during weekdays and 10 am–4 pm on weekends but this varies. Supermarkets are typically open from 7 am–10 pm.
 New Zealand has a wide network of hiking trails and back country huts, and choices vary from day hikes to multi-day Great Walks. So put on your hiking shoes; this is the best way to see the country though we timidly stuck to our bus
New Zealand can be expensive. After all, everything does need to be shipped to the end of the world so it’s understandable.

There may be no tipping culture but there certainly is a coffee culture. You’ll find coffee at just about every turn, including petrol stations. Part of the true Kiwi experience is ordering a “flat white”.
New Zealand has a no-smoking policy in eateries (though you may find a smoking area outside) and many public areas are also becoming smoke-free. If you’re a smoker, look out for signs telling you where you can and can’t smoke.
It’s customary in New Zealand to either pay at the time of ordering or to go up to the counter after your meal and pay for it. If you wait for your bill to be brought to you, you’ll be waiting a long time.
 Your bill will be rounded up or down to the nearest 10c when paying by cash. Debit cards (called Eftpos cards) are accepted just about everywhere and most shops also accept credit cards.
One of the great things about New Zealand is that there aren’t any dangerous snakes (or any snakes at all) or spiders a fact which was re emphasized by our guides many times
In New Zealand one can find a wide range of accommodations, from backpacker lodges to five-star hotels, but we can expect to pay between S$150 and $230 (160–240 NZD) for a double room at a mid-range hotel.
A main course at a mid-range restaurant will usually range from S$18 to $30 (20–32 NZD).
In fact in every place we visited we could find Indian restaurants that too south Indian ones blaring telugu music to our extreme delight and we could get our famous chicken Biryani .

 Sandflies were found everywhere and when I was trying to recollect the list of diseases caused by them, my husband hushed me down saying that he didn’t want to go on a medical journey on this trip.
Shopping is so expensive that we just spent our time doing window shopping ,sometimes my husband had to literally drag me away from the tastefully done window displays and I happily captured all my fancies on my camera

 According to folklore, early flowing pōhutukawa are a sign of a long, hot summer and the first signs of red appearing on the trees and presence of even a single flower  made our guides exclaim that an early summer was expected

Summer is peak season for more than apples and kiwifruit in New Zealand. It’s also time for Meyer lemons, feijoa, kiwano melons and passion fruit, among other specialty items

 NZ tap water is universally safe to drink. Standards exist to ensure that major contaminating organisms such as Protozoa and Cryptosporidium are removed or reduced to safe levels.

The roads are very motorable with stringent rules of the road and the long distances travelled on the bus didn’t even make a dent in our ageing bones
As we had taken adequate supply of required medicines we had no health issues and most important was the immense warmth and hospitality shown by all kiwis which makes us look back on our New Zealand with fond memories

DELIGHTFUL DUNEDIN -NEW ZEALAND JOURNEY

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We travelled via Gore and Balclutha to Dunedin.

As we came closer to the city I had a feeling that I was back in UK

Dunedin’s name comes from Dùn Èideann, Scottish name for Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland

The urban area of Dunedin city lies on the central-eastern coast of Otago, surrounding the head of Otago Harbour, and the harbour and hills around Dunedin are the remnants of an extinct volcano.

In 1848 a Scottish settlement was established  and between 1855 and 1900 many thousands of Scots emigrated to the incorporated city.

 Dunedin became wealthy during the Central Otago Gold rush, beginning in the 1860s.

It is considered one of the four main cities of New Zealand for historic, cultural and geographic reasons and has a diverse economy, which includes manufacturing, publishing and technology-based industries as well as education, research and tourism.

The city's most important activity centres around tertiary education – Dunedin is home to the University of Otago, New Zealand's oldest university  (established 1869), and the Otago Polytechnic

Students account for a large proportion of the population. In 2014 Dunedin was designated as a UNESCO city of literature

The first spot we visited was Toitu Otago Settler’s museum, a regional history museum, show casing social history dedicated to the people of Dunedin and the surrounding area, whose character, culture, technology, art, fashion and transport shaped New Zealand’s first great city.

 Its fourteen themed galleries featured interactive displays and powerful narratives tracing the human history of the area, from the earliest settlers to the most recent arrivals.

There was an on site shop and café. We especially enjoyed the historic clothing area, and vintage technology and domestic appliances, and the old vehicles.

 A rare old steam engine in the foyer, Josephine was attracting attention of many visitors, young and old alike. Josephine began her career on the Dunedin-Port Chalmers Railway – one of two Double Fairlie locomotives brought from England to operate the railway in 1872.

She went on to work at various other locations throughout the country, before being sent to the scrap yard 45 years later. Luckily she avoided the scrap heap, however, and, since the latter half of the 1920s, has been on display at the Museum.

Initially exposed to the elements on the lawn outside, a campaign to save Josephine in the late 1960s restored her and moved her indoors. One of only a handful of surviving Double Fairlies left in the world, Josephine is a much-loved icon of the Museum

We had a bite to eat in the cafe and walked down to the Dunedin railway station adjacent and within walking distance .The railway station was designed by George Troup and is the city's fourth station. It earned its architect the nickname of "Gingerbread George".

The station is constructed of dark basalt from Kokonga with lighter Oamaru stone facings, which gave it the distinctive light and dark pattern, Pink granite was used for a series of supporting pillars which line a colonnade at the front.

The roof was tiled in terracota shingles from Marseilles  surmounted by copper-domed cupolas. 

 We stepped in and waited in the  booking hall which featured a mosaic floor of almost 750,000 Minton tiles.

 A frieze of Royal Doulton porcelain ran around the balcony above it  which featured a locomotive and related symbols

 The main platform was the country's longest extending for about 500 metres.

On the platform we found two stout ladies dressed in old European style giving photo opportunities which I promptly utilised of course!

In its early days the station was the country's busiest, handling up to 100 trains a day. The city's economic decline and the reduction in the prominence of rail transport meant that only a handful of trains use the station today.

Bought by the Dunedin city council in 1994, its uses have greatly diversified, though it still caters for the Dunedin Railways tourist trains.

 Much of the ground floor is used as a restaurant, and the upper floor is home to both the New Zealand Sports Hall of fame and the Otago Art Society

 A produce market is held in the grounds to the north every Saturday morning. Every year in March, the station takes centre stage in the South Island's main fashion show, with the main platform becoming reputedly the world's longest catwalk

Immediately outside the station is Anzac Square, which, despite its name, was roughly triangular in shape, and was extensively remodelled and extended in the 1990s to create a formal knot garden

    We boarded the  Silver Fern railcar for a  Waitati sea sider journey along spectacular clifftops overlooking the Pacific Ocean,Otago peninsula,Otago harbour and Blueskin Bay,it  provided vistas that otherwise were invisible to the motorist. 

We enjoyed the trip, and saw a part of the Dunedin area that would have forever been unknown to us.

  

 A lot of overgrown vegetation sometimes obscured the views. Once in Waitati we had to swap seats with the persons opposite us, so that they could have the coastal views on the return leg

We enjoyed listening to the commentary and watching the scenery. Most of the time the train travelled close to the coast and views were really lovely.

 The railcar had a good food service with the attendants bringing around a cart loaded with sandwiches and muffins, drinks and snacks, at set intervals.

 On return to Dunedin's historic Edwardian Railway Station, we boarded the coach for an informative city tour.

That night we had a Scottish evening comprising of bagpipes, great food, Haggis Ceremony in which Scottish origin tourists from our group played a major role, I particularly enjoyed the cheerful bag pipe music

Next day we travelled along the Otago Peninsula to Larnach Castle for a guided tour.  Larnach Castle is a mock castle on the ridge of the Otago Peninsula .

The house was built by prominent entrepreneur  and politician, William Larnach. The Castle is now privately owned by the Barker Family, and operated as a tourism destination.

We had a guide to explain and were allowed to take snaps but without a flash

 Much of the stone used for the Castle came from a basalt quarry nearby. Other materials included yellow brick, Glasgow brick, Oamaru stone, Port Chalmers basalt, Cornwall blackstone, Italian marble, Marseilles cobbles, Catlins timber, North Island Kauri and local Caversham sandstone for the ballroom.

 The Godfrey family carved many of the building's intricate ceilings; a single ceiling in the main foyer took six and half years to complete.

 In 1875, twenty tonne of glass was imported from Venice, in an effort to enclose exposed verandahs unsuitable for Dunedin winters.

 The addition of the 3000 square foot ballroom was made in 1887 which was a 21st birthday present for Larnach's eldest daughter Kate.
I particularly loved an ivory sewing set

 The resulting complex eventually contained 43 rooms and required a staff of 46 servants.
We went up to the top where the views were beautiful but it was so windy we could not stay long

 The complex included 35 acres reserved for grounds, including a winery, and a home farm of 300 acres with its own farmstead including a cow byre for 300 cows, stables, and quarters for farm workers.

 After a series of personal and financial setbacks Larnach committed suicide in New Zealand's Parliament Buildings in October 1898.

 Following bitter legal battles over Larnach's will, the Larnach Family sold the house in 1906.

Throughout the 20th Century Larnach Castle went through constant changes of ownership and usage.

 The building fell into disrepair, and in 1967 was bought by Barry and Margaret Barker. Norcombe Barker became Larnach Castle Executive Director in 1990.

 Significant restoration work has since been carried out by the Barker Family, along with retrieval of original furniture to refurnish the house.

The gardens which were marvellous were not an original feature of William Larnach's home, and have been given "Garden of International Significance" status

Larnach Castle operates as a significant tourist attraction in Dunedin, receiving approximately 120,000 guests per annum.

The building has been visited by paranormal investigators and featured on local New Zealand television shows such as Ghost hunt and Spookers as well as international television shows

 Next  we went to Glenfalloch Restaurant for a delightful free morning tea where we gorged on muffins ,bread ,butter and fresh cream  and had delightful cups of English tea ,

It was located in a heritage garden with lovely flowers

Our accommodation was at Scenic Hotel Southern Cross was the perfect location from which to explore Dunedin. Just a short walk to the Octagon, Railway Station, theatres, shops, and close to Otago University.

 We visited the Steepest street in Dunedin

We parked our bus and went up the Baldwin street. It is too steep for a normal type footpath, there are a long series of steps

It's in the Guinness Book of Records. The record for running up and down is under 2 minutes which is hard to believe but confirmed. We went halfway and found the houses on either side of the street very quaint

I was strongly reminded of the "crooked street" in San Francisco.

Next day morning we visited Olveston House, a prestigious historic home, built for a wealthy merchant David Theomin, (1852-1933) who was born in  Bristol, England and emigrated to Melbourne, in 1874, married Marie Michaelis and moved to Dunedin from Melbourne in 1881

The house was fitted with all the latest conveniences: central heating, an internal telephone system, a service lift, a food mixer, and an electric toaster, It had 35 rooms, with a total floor area of 1276 m². 

Theomin had acquired land on the site in 1881 and work went on from 1901 to 1907

The building was brick rendered in Moeraki gravel, with Oamaru stone facings and roofed with Marseilles tiles. The main entrance and some principal rooms faced east. A galleried hall rises through the ground and upper floors and served as a ball room.

 An elevated internal balcony was an eyrie from which to watch the dancing below. The youthful Miss Theomin's personal suite with its own sitting room was delicate and charming.

Olveston was not an Arts and Crafts house though something of that aesthetic is apparent. While over-furnished by later standards a lot of the contents were interesting and some outstanding.

 Theomin's fortune came substantially from importing pianos which he distributed through a New Zealand-wide chain of shops, called The Dresden, and later The Bristol Piano Company. He and his daughter Dorothy were patrons especially of music and the visual arts.

The Theomins collected art, ceramics and furniture. They acquired significant Japanese material and works by famous people which was particularly lovely

The house and its contents were gracefully bequeathed to the city in 1966 by David Theomin's daughter Dorothy and opened to the public the following year, and has between 30,000 and 40,000 visitors annually.

 Its architectural distinction, its collections and the record it represents of a sumptuous life in Edwardian New Zealand lend it a special interest.

We then travelled to Oamaru, famous for its limestone. Many public buildings use as their construction material the local limestone (quarried especially near Weston) and known as Oamaru stone.

The bus dropped us at the Victorian precinct in southern part of Oamaru's main commercial district  which ranks as one of New Zealand's most impressive street scapes  due to the many prominent 19th century buildings constructed from this material.

Several key historic buildings in the area centered around Harbour Street and the lower Thames Street, Itchen Street and Tyne Street have been preserved by the Oamaru Whitestone Civic Trust as part of a historic precinct.

Oamaru looks a little different from any other town in New Zealand.We enjoyed a stroll around this small town it was an unexpected delight, looking at its Victorian buildings, wide streets and the Steam Punk train.

The wool industry was a big influence and it was very interesting to see that wool is still being processed down in the precinct.

There were rows of interesting, funky, quirky shops in historical buildings.

We spent our time checking out the coffee shop, bakery, antique shops, book shop, glass shop, design shop, fabric shops. All the shops were connected and we could go from one side to the other side.

We finally headed to Christchurch where we were put up at Sudima Hotel which was just 2 minutes from the air port .That night we had a farewell dinner with our friends from all over the world.

We sang and danced merrily and bid farewell to one another knowing very well that in all probability we would not be meeting ever again
A representative of the Pacific tour attended the dinner

The next day after a restful sleep we were bid farewell by our Tony and dropped at the Christchurch airport where we took the flight back to Singapore and from there to India