WAH JAPAN CHAI ! - JAPAN JOURNEY

 BLOG POST 9
Our tour included a formal tea ceremony, so after the golden pavilion visit we were taken there

I never realized that my daily cup of garam chai had so much history and given great importance in Japan. The Japanese tea ceremony, also called the Way of Tea, is a Japanese cultural activity involving the ceremonial preparation and presentation of matcha powdered green tea.

Tea had been introduced to Japan from China by Buddhist monks, who used it as a stimulant to keep awake during long periods of meditation, I felt no wonder our Indian students survive on tea before their exams
The first great tea master was Sen No Rikyu from 15th century who laid down certain rules and regulations
We got down from our van, walked for a while and entered the tea house leaving our shoes outside

It was  quite small and simple , décor was that of a plain wooden structure , there was a raised platform on which tatami mats were laid on which small stools were placed with tables in front of them . Only decoration seen inside were scrolls with inscription

There was a table on which was laid Hiki Cha equipment comprising of granite stones called “Mikage-ishi”

Their texture is suitable for milling, and people used to mill matcha with this stone in the past. There are many gaps inside the milling stone to hold the tea leaves that are inserted from the top.There was an explanation chart  placed on the table

We tried our hand at it, though it looked easy ,it was tough as the stone was heavy, we would be milling the Tencha tea, a kind of dried tea leaf that is grown in a tea garden with no sunlight.
We put the Tencha leaves in the middle of the mill and grinded it counter-clockwise. The trick is to turn it once, every three seconds

After grinding, there was vivid green powder, the magical matcha!We carefully collected it using a brush and put it in a sieve and it was very similar to our manual machines in our country
Then we were asked to settle on the stools, one Japanese gentleman came into the room sliding the door gently open ,he was wearing  a  combination of kimono and hakama (a long divided or undivided skirt worn over the kimono) and was quite fluent in English,he first explained about the tea ceremony

Tea gatherings are classified as an informal tea gathering chakai and a formal tea gathering chaji . A chakai is a relatively simple course of hospitality that includes confections, thin tea, and perhaps a light meal. A chaji is more formal gathering lasting for 3 to 4 hours, usually including a full-course kaiseki meal followed by confections, thick tea, and thin tea.
There are two main ways of preparing Matcha for tea consumption: thick (Koicha) and thin ( Usucha), the best quality tea leaves are used in preparing thick tea , the tea leaves used as packing material for the Koicha leaves in the tea urn ( Chatsubo) would be served as thin tea. Thin tea is served to each guest in an individual bowl, while one bowl of thick tea is shared among several guests
So we were now attending a simple Chakai gathering and going to drink thin tea

Special schools conduct classes to students in the ways of preparing the tea right from the dressing ,entry into the tea rooms ,how to manage the Tatami mats ,how to take care of the equipment ,how to prepare tea and decorum to be maintained
Our host first introduced us to the Tea equipment called Chadōgu .
 A wide range of Chadōgu are available and different styles and motifs are used for different events and seasons. All the tools for tea are handled with exquisite care. They are scrupulously cleaned before and after each use and before storing, and some are handled only with gloved hands.
Some items, such as the tea storage jar "Chigusa," are so revered that they are given proper names like people and admired and documented Some are passed on in generations after generations

Chakin is a small rectangular white linen or hemp or cloth mainly used to wipe the tea bowl
Tea bowls or Chawan are available in a wide range of sizes and styles, and different types are used for thick and thin tea. Shallow bowls, which allow the tea to cool rapidly, are used in summer, deep bowls are used in winter. Different types of bowls with exquisite designs were placed before us

Bowls over four hundred years old are in use today, but used only on unusually special occasions. The best bowls are done by hand, and some are extremely valuable. Irregularities and imperfections are prized and often featured prominently as the "front" of the bowl.
Tea caddy , Natsume or Chaire is the small lidded container in which the powdered tea is placed for use in the tea-making procedure .

Tea scoop or Chashaku are generally carved from a single piece of bamboo, ivory or wood. They are used to scoop tea from the tea caddy into the tea bowl. Different styles and colors are used in various tea traditions.
Tea whisk or Chasen, is the brush like implement used to mix the powdered tea with the hot water and are carved from a single piece of bamboo. Tea whisks quickly become worn and damaged with use, and the host should use a new one when holding a tea ceremony

The host showed us our bowls and asked us to pour the matcha powder one and half scoops into them and he then poured hot water into our small bowls

which we had to pour over the matcha powder and we had to briskly whisk the powder with the brush in straight lines and not in circles ,we had to do this very fast till froth came over the liquid

Now we were instructed to take the bowl in our left hand and place our right hand on its side. Next we had to turn the bowl clockwise toward us and try the Matcha, seeing our wry faces our host asked us to eat the sweet provided at each table known as Wagashi ,it was so sweet that we managed to drink the rest of the tea.
 Wagashi  are traditional Japanese sweets that are typically enjoyed in combination with a cup of green tea. They are made in a wide variety of shapes and consistencies and with diverse ingredients and preparation methods.

Sweet azuki bean paste, sugar ,rice flour ,sesame paste and chestnuts are other ingredients are used in a large number of Japanese sweets ,most of which  are handmade as per the seasons
At this stage it is worth mentioning that the tea was so bitter that I felt like I was a drinking a strong decoction
After drinking it we had to wipe the bowl and turn it the other side . Although it looked easy, we found it difficult

After the process of tea drinking was over, our host asked us to make sounds of contentment showing our appreciation which we happily did and he finally demonstrated how to clean our bowls

   Altogether our tea ceremony was an enjoyable and a memorable one

GLITTERING GOLD PAVILION KINKAUJI –JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 8

After the Imperial palace visit we visited the Temple of the Golden Pavilion or Kinkaku-ji a Zen Buddhist temple. It is one of the most popular buildings in Kyoto and attracts many visitors annually.

It is designated as a National Special Historic Site and Special Landscape and is one of 17 Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto which are World Heritage Sites 

We entered the premises through Somon, the main gate. There was a beautiful path laid down by maple and pine trees gayly swaying in the wind and welcoming us ,lot of Japanese girls were gracefully walking maybe on holiday

The site of Kinkaku-ji was originally a villa belonging to a powerful statesman, Saionji  Kintsune. In 1397 the villa was purchased from the Saionji family by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and transformed into the Kinkaku-ji complex. When Yoshimitsu died, the building was converted  by his son into a Zen temple as per his wishes.

 Kinkakuji was the inspiration for the Ginkakuji  the Silver Pavilion built by Yoshimitsu's grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a few decades later.

In 14th century unfortunately all buildings in the complex apart from the pavilion were burned down and were rebuilt again

On 2nd July 1950, the pavilion was burned down by a 22-year-old novice monk, Hayashi Yoken, who then attempted suicide on the Daimon-ji hill behind the building. He survived, and was subsequently taken into custody. The monk was sentenced to seven years in prison, but was released because of his history of mental illness of persecution complex and schizophrenia but he died of tuberculosis in March 1956.

 During the fire, the original statue of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu was lost to the flames but however is now restored. A fictionalized version of these events has become the base of Yukio Mishima ‘s famous book “ Temple of the Golden Pavilion “

The present pavilion structure was rebuilt in 1955.We started walking towards it and found that it was of three stories and 40 feet in height.

  In 1984 the coating of Japanese lacquer was found to be a little decayed and a new coating, as well as gilding with gold-leaf, much thicker than the original coatings was completed in 1987. 

The top two stories of the pavilion are covered with pure gold leaf. The pavilion houses Buddha's Ashes. 

 The gold employed as per Japanese philosophy was intended to mitigate and purify negative thoughts and feelings towards death. As we looked in awe as the is sun light fell on the pavilion ,it glinted and there was a golden reflection created on the pond.

The pavilion successfully incorporates three distinct styles of architecture, which are Shinden, Samurai and Zen, specifically on each floor. Each floor of the Kinkaku uses a different architectural style. The first floor called “The Chamber of Dharma Waters” is evocative of the Shinden palace style. It is designed as an open space with adjacent verandas and uses natural, unpainted wood and white plaster.

 Most of the walls are made of shutters that can vary the amount of light and air into the pavilion and change the view by controlling the shutters' heights. 

The second floor, called  “The Tower of Sound Waves” is built in the style of warrior aristocrat. On this floor, sliding wooden doors and latticed windows create a feeling of impermanence. The second floor also contains a Buddha Hall and a shrine dedicated to the goddess of mercy.

 The third floor is built in traditional Chinese Chan style, It is called “the Cupola of the Ultimate” .

The roof is a thatched pyramid with shingles and is topped by a bronze phoenix statue 

Statues of Buddha and Yoshimitsu are stored in the first floor. Although it is not possible to enter the pavilion, the statues can be viewed from across the pond if seen closely, as the front windows of the first floor are usually kept open

 The elements of nature, death, religion, are fused together to create this connection between the pavilion and outside intrusions.

As we started walking towards the Golden Pavilion we found that it was set in a Japanese strolling garden landscaped in the go-round style. The pavilion extended over a pond, called Kyōko-chi  or mirror pond that reflected the building proudly

 The pond contained 10 smaller islands. The Zen typology could be seen through the rock composition, the bridges and plants were arranged in a particular way to represent famous places in Japanese literature. 

After viewing Kinkakuji from across the pond, we passed by the head priest's former living quarters (hojo) known for their painted sliding doors (fusuma), but not open to the public.

 Our path once again passed by Kinkakuji from behind giving us all plenty of photo shoot opportunities and then lead through the temple's gardens which have retained their original design from Yoshimitsu's days.

The quaint Anmintaku Pond here is said to always have water and has many small statues and islands considered lucky. 

We found tourists fervently throwing small centrally punched 5-Yen coins for luck 

The small stone pagoda at the center of the pond is known as the Hakuja-No-Tsuka for a mound dedicated to the white snake’s memory. 

We found a cluster of stone statues of Buddha and his disciples in the garden and saw the locals throw coins at them for blessings and there was an ancient 600 year old bonsai pine tree 

It was indeed very crowded and people were jostling for good snaps and the ever present school children could be seen , after following the path and weaving through the garden full of many maple and cypress trees, we then came across the Sekka-tei, an old tea house that was rebuilt in 1874, designed by Kanamori Sowa in the 17th century. 

The roof was already covered with light green moss and lichens that provided a nice complement to the green maple leaves. It had the ancient toro or stone lantern, a Muromachi Palace seat and a basin all reminders of lavish Kitayama culture of the court’s wealthy aristocrats in Yoshimitsu's times. 

We came to the Fudo Hall, a small temple hall which housed a statue of Fudo Myoo, one of the Five Wisdom Kings and protector of Buddhism. The statue is said to be carved by Kobo Daishi, one of the most important figures in Japanese religious history. We saw people ring the temple bells, light incense and ask for blessings.

A tea shop was grinding its own matcha a green tea that has been ground into a fine powder and is used in traditional Japanese tea ceremonies.

 She prepared a couple of sample cups. The result was a creamy green drink though it was made only with ground tea and water. It was good to taste

 A nearby snack shack sold ice cream cones sprinkled with gold flake.

There were plenty of stalls giving free samples of cookies, mochi balls, and tea and plenty of souvenirs to buy 

Some tourists had Goshuin Temple Stamp Book to collect stamps from all the different temples at the Japanese UNESCO World Heritage sites. 

 

 The exit of the temple complex was a steep walk alongside trees and a golden wall which seemed very befitting to the Golden Pavilion Temple

IMPERIAL PALACE, KYOTO –JAPAN JOURNEY

BLOG POST 7
We had lunch at an Indian restaurant and set going to the Kyoto Imperial Palace, the former ruling palace of the Emperors of Japan till 1868

 Naruhito the present emperor's main official palace is now in Tokyo . Kyoto was the Capital of Japan till 1868 , is a low-rise city, with lots of private residential areas, many shrines & temples, lots of parks  with very few Industries, as a result it was hardly touched by bombing during Second World War
We found that the Imperial palace was located in a large ,quiet wooded area in the middle of Kyoto and admission was free for a self guided tour.

The roads were being used by the cyclists  and the sprawling lawns for picnics

The Palace burned down several times and was reconstructed faithfully in the ancient style each time. The last rebuilding of the Palace was completed in 1855
Surrounded by an earthen wall called Tsuiji, Kyoto Imperial Palace is rectangular in shape, It has six gates, including the main gate  Kenreimon which had a cypress-wood roof, and was supported by four unpainted wooden pillars

Before we entered , we were thoroughly frisked and given token numbers.

 In contrast to the royal residences we were accustomed to see in India and elsewhere ,we were surprised to discover the simplicity of the palace which had low roof lines and wooden construction

We were only allowed to see the buildings from outside and had a lot of walking to do specially on the gravel road ,good for us that we were wearing sturdy shoes.

While walking around we could see some of the other gates

The main buildings are the Shishinden Hall for State Ceremonies, Seiryōden Emperor's Habitual Residence, Kogosho Court Room, Ogakumonjo , Imperial Study or Library, and a number of residences for the Empress, high-ranking aristocrats and government officials.

The Shishinden was the most important ceremonial building within the palace grounds. The enthronement ceremonies of Emperor Taisho and Emperor Showa took place here.

The garden of white gravel plays an important role in the ceremony. We saw some workers very patiently picking up stones other than white gravel.

The white gravel courtyard became a distinctive feature of Shinto shrines, Imperial Palaces, Buddhist temples, and Zen gardens
Courtyards of this type were used for festivities and typically had a stream flowing under the building and through the courtyard. We saw an exhibit of the bark of cypress tree which constituted the roof of the hall

The Shishinden hall was big, 108 by 75 ft in size, and featured a traditional architectural style, with a gabled and hipped roof. On either side of its main stairway were planted trees which would become very famous and sacred, a cherry (sakura) on the eastern, left side, and a tachibana orange tree on the right to the west.

We saw the carriage / palanquin porch (Okurumayose), reserved for emissaries of the Shogun and other high ranking nobles

Next were the anterooms, Shodaibu-no-ma, three waiting rooms in which guests are allocated to according to their ranks.

First was the “Room of Tiger” for the most important guests, then the “Room of Cranes”, and the “Room of Cherry Trees”, clearly based on the paintings on the fusuma (sliding door).

They had Tatami mats and were very simple and elegant

 I particularly liked the gardens , Oikeniwa or Pond garden, a strolling garden featured a large pond previously a lake and hosted boating parties and the Keyakibashi bridge which symbolizes the path to paradise and immortality.

Bridges could be made of stone or of wood, or made of logs with earth on top, covered with moss ,they could be either arched or flat Sometimes if they were part of a temple garden, they were painted red, following the Chinese tradition, but for the most part they were unpainted

We saw the Gonaitei garden also called inner garden and was the Emperor’s private garden, where various differently designed stone lanterns presented by some prominent feudal lords could be seen.

Japanese stone lanterns date back to the Nara period and the Heian period. They are located at Buddhist temples and at Shinto shrines as well.

We saw many beautiful flowering plants and trees in the gardens like the azalea, the camellia, the oak, the elm, the Japanese apricot, cherry, maple, the willow, the gingko, the Japanese cypress, the cider, pine, and bamboo

Japanese gardens are traditional gardens designed based on Japanese aesthetics and philosophical ideas, artificial ornaments are avoided, and natural landscape is highlighted.

Plants and worn out aged materials are generally used by Japanese garden designers to suggest a natural landscape, and to express the belief that life is fragile and time and tide don’t wait for anyone

Japanese gardens have their roots in the Japanese religion of Shinto, with its story of the creation of eight perfect islands, and of the Shinchi, the lakes of the gods. Prehistoric Shinto shrines to the Kami, the gods and spirits, are found on beaches and in forests all over the island. Prehistoric shrines often took the form of unusual rocks or trees and surrounded with white stones or pebbles, a symbol of purity

Traditional Japanese gardens can be categorized into three types Tsukiyama (hill gardens), Karesansui (dry gardens) and  Chaniwa gardens (tea gardens).

On taking a tour of the gardens we felt the serenity of the Japanese landscape and felt that the simple but deliberate structures of the Japanese gardens are what truly make the gardens unique

Japanese gardens always have water, either a pond or stream, or in the dry rock garden, represented by white sand.
In Buddhist symbolism, water and stone are the yin and yang, two opposites that complement and complete each other. A traditional garden will usually have an irregular-shaped pond or, in larger gardens, two or more ponds connected by a channel or stream and a cascade, a miniature version of Japan's famous mountain waterfalls.

In traditional gardens, the ponds and streams are carefully placed according to Buddhist geomancy, the art of putting things in the place most likely to attract good fortune very similar to our Indian vasthu