Friday, 30 October 2026

STONES, SPIRES, AND SOUL: OUR EPIC HERITAGE DAY IN AHMEDABAD

This was our second day in Ahmedabad, a city home to some of India’s most remarkable Indo-Islamic heritage mosques. Built during the 15th and 16th centuries under the Gujarat Sultanate, these structures beautifully blend Islamic structural geometry with exquisite Hindu and Jain craftsmanship.

We started at the Shahi Jama Masjid, built in 1424 by Sultan Ahmed Shah I. As one of India's grandest congregational mosques, it rests on 260 intricately carved pillars supporting 15 spectacular domes with internal lotus-flower motifs. 

Its massive and serene marble courtyard offers a quiet sanctuary in the middle of the chaotic Manek Chowk bazaar.

Next, we passed by the Sidi Saiyad Masjid, commissioned in 1573 by a Habshi nobleman of African descent during the Sultanate–Mughal transition. It is globally famous for the "Tree of Life" jali—a 16-foot stone lattice window carved with spider-web precision that serves as the official symbol of Ahmedabad. Uniquely, it lacks a traditional central dome, relying instead on a flat system of interior stone arches.

Heading right next to the Kalupur Metro Station, we checked out the Jhulta Minar, one of the most compelling architectural mysteries in India. These towers are remnants of the 15th-century Sidi Bashir Mosque.

Built in a beautiful Indo-Islamic style blended with Rajputana architectural elements, the surviving monument consists of two 70-foot-tall, three-story sandstone minarets flanking a central gateway.

What makes them mind-boggling is their sympathetic resonance: if we apply a gentle force to the upper arch of one minaret, it sways, and within seconds, the opposite minaret begins to shake in perfect tandem.

Meanwhile, the connecting central stone archway remains completely motionless. However, to keep the structure from collapsing, authorities have discontinued public demonstrations and banned climbing the internal spiral staircases.

Next, we headed 18 km north on the Gandhinagar highway to Adalaj Stepwell, a five-story-deep underground sandstone masterpiece built in 1499. 

Classified as a "Jaya Vav" (a three-faced stepwell) because it has three entrances that meet at a central platform, its history is a mix of medieval engineering, tragic romance, and cultural fusion.

Its construction was started in 1498 by the Hindu ruler Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty to solve severe water shortage. However, he was killed in battle by Sultan Mahmud Begada of Gujarat.

The Sultan fell in love with Veer Singh’s beautiful widow, Queen Rudabai, and proposed marriage. She agreed on one condition—that the Sultan complete the stepwell.

Begada built the structure in record time, blending Islamic features with the original design. Upon its completion in 1499, Queen Rudabai came to inspect the work and, choosing dignity over dishonour, jumped into the well, ending her life. Touched by her supreme devotion, the heartbroken Sultan left the monument intact without destroying its Hindu carvings.

The design features massive open octagonal shafts that let in light but restrict direct sunshine except at noon, keeping the lower tiers at a cool 5°C to 6°C below the surface ground level. 

As we walked down from the blistering surface heat, it felt like we were stepping into air-conditioned rooms. 

We admired sacred symbols like the Ami Khumbor (pot of the water of life) and the Kalpavriksha (tree of life), alongside bands of meticulously carved, 3-inch-high elephants. My husband spent ten minutes trying to find two elephants with the same design, but to his disappointment, they were all completely distinct!

Our next destination was one of India's most revered national monuments, the Sabarmati Ashram (also known as Satyagraha Ashram). There was no entry ticket, and as we entered the premises and saw the Sabarmati River and its banks, we could immediately feel the peace in the surroundings. 



The Ashram served as the primary home and headquarters of Mahatma Gandhi and his wife, Kasturba, from 1917 till 1930 and was the nerve centre of the Indian independence movement.

Gandhiji felt the 36-acre riverfront plot was ideal because it sat directly between a prison and a graveyard, reminding his satyagrahis where their struggle for truth would likely lead them. 

On March 12, 1930, Gandhiji marched out of this ashram with 78 companions on the historic Dandi Salt March, taking a sacred vow never to return until India achieved complete independence. Sadly, he never lived here again.

The architecture beautifully mirrors Gandhiji’s philosophy of minimalism, self-sufficiency, and indigenous materials


Hriday Kunj is the most historic cottage on campus and the actual living quarters of Gandhi and Kasturba, where we viewed Gandhi's writing desk, his personal spinning wheel (charkha), and original letters.




Upasana Mandir is an open-air, tiered prayer ground overlooking the river for morning and evening spiritual discourse.

Vinoba –Mira Kutir – a very modest cottage named after prominent disciples Acharya Vinoba Bhave and Mirabehn.

Nandini is the dedicated guest house that once hosted national leaders like Jawaharlal Nehru and Rabindranath Tagore.

We next went to Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya, the museum, which was designed by legendary architect Charles Correa. Opened in 1963, simple 20' x 20' modular brick units, unvarnished wood, and terracotta roof tiles were used to mimic the casual, winding layout of an Indian village.

It houses over 34,000 original letters and 8,600 manuscripts and is open every day of the year from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM.


After a vegetarian lunch, we visited the Hutheesing Jain Temple, one of Ahmedabad's most stunning architectural and spiritual landmarks. Built entirely of white marble in 1848, this sacred Śvētāmbara Jain temple seamlessly blends traditional Maru-Gurjara temple architecture with Gujarati haveli design elements.

It stands as a monument to compassion, as it was constructed by the wealthy merchant family of Seth Hutheesing Kesrisinh as a humanitarian famine-relief project to provide employment for hundreds of artisans.

A magnificent, 78-foot-tall tower of honour stands at the entrance, inspired by Chittor's Kirti Stambha with subtle Mughal minaret styling. The entire double-storied structure features exceptionally dense stone carvings on its pillars, brackets, and windows. 

The outer courtyard is bordered by a massive cloister containing 52 smaller shrines (Bavan Jinalay), housing a total of 238 stone deity images. 

We wrapped up our epic heritage day at the grand BAPS Swaminarayana Temple in Shahibaug. Consecrated originally in 1952 by Yogiji Maharaj, this massive, hyper-disciplined spiritual complex doubles as the main head office for BAPS operations.

It was evening by the time we reached, and the architecture was an absolute showstopper—a breathtaking, pure white structure adorned with incredibly intricate stone carvings, towering grand domes, and beautifully manicured gardens. Inside, the lifelike murtis of Shri Ghanshyam Maharaj and Harikrishna Maharaj are dressed daily in unique, highly elaborate attire. 




We were so mesmerised by the absolute discipline, the pristine marble layout highlighted by multiple lights, and the peaceful vibes that we forgot to check our phones for a full hour except to take snaps—a certified spiritual miracle!



The complex includes secure on-site parking and a wonderfully clean dining hall serving pure vegetarian, Sathvik food. After a long day of walking, sitting down to a peaceful meal here felt like absolute heaven.

Ahmedabad’s heritage is mind-blowing, and the craftsmanship is unbelievable. Packing plenty of water and wearing easy-to-slip-off shoes definitely saved the day!



 

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STONES, SPIRES, AND SOUL: OUR EPIC HERITAGE DAY IN AHMEDABAD

This was our second day in Ahmedabad, a city home to some of India’s most remarkable Indo-Islamic heritage mosques. Built during the 15th an...